Mile Post 7.7 ~ Hawk Mtn. Shelter
February 28 ~ Beautiful day today! The weather was a perfect start for a
thru-hike of the AT. Sunny, in the sixties, blue skies. After the requisite
summit photos on Springer, I hiked to the shelter. Let me tell you, the view
from the privy gives a whole new meaning to the phrase "Royal Throne Room"!
A pleasent surprise today was meeting Father Time and Mother Nature. This
couple is doing the trail, and after talking to them for a while I realized
I had met them in Vermont when I did the LT last Summer. Small world! Well
off to bed, and a new day of hiking in the AM.-Paul
Mile Post 16.1 ~ Gooch Gap Shelter
March 1 ~ Today was a rollercoaster ride on the AT. To summarize: down into
a gap, up a mountain, into another gap, up yet another mountain, etc.
Finally a steep .2 mile climb to the shelter! Needless to say, I did not
feel like pushing on to the next shelter 10.6 miles away. Good thing, come
to find out the shelter is not built yet anyways. Despite my grousing, it
was another beautiful day. Tunnels were formed by rhododendrons, and the
sunlight reflecting on the creeks was just magnificent. Consider these
reasons #236 and #237 to do a thru-hike.-Paul
Mile Post 30.7 ~ Neels Gap
March 2 ~ One of the caveats about hiking the AT is to expect the
unexpected. Today the unexpected happened. Here I am almost 2000 miles from
my home in Rhode Island, and it snows! Perhaps my New England perspective
pictures a sunny South. Intellectually I know this is not true, but I still
found a snow squall on the summit of Blood Mountain to be a bit of a
surprise. So, after almost 15 miles of hiking I had two choices A)Hike
another mile or so past Neels Gap and pitch a tent in the snow or B)Split
the cost of a cabin at Goose Creek, do my laundry, and have a nice hot
shower. For once, my common sense won out. Now, I write this journal in a
warm cabin instead of a cold tent. A bit of a splurge, but sometimes you
have to. Heck, I am on an extended vacation, might as well enjoy it. Tonight
I met my fellow AT98er, Cricket. Pleasant woman to talk to. This was also my
third night spent bunking with PackRat. This man knows more about gear than
most outfitters! Still, great guy to talk to and adds color to my hike.-Paul
Mile Post 41.4 ~ Low Gap Shelter
March 3 ~ {Sung to the tune of Winter Wonderland} Hiking on the AT while
it's snowing, Wearing fleece and balaclavas, Having a real fine time, Hiking
on the AT winter wonderland. Look, it's sunny in the valley, Why is it still
snowing? Turning a few shades of blue, Hiking on this AT winter wonderland.
Listen to the wind howling, The temp is in the mid twenties, Eating some
mac-n-cheese, Trying to stay warm in this shelter on the AT winter
wonderland. Off to my sleeping bag, Rated to twenty, Wearing all my clothes,
Hoping I don't turn into a popsicle on the AT winter wonderland.-Paul
Mile Post 56.2 ~ Tray Mtn. Shelter
March 4 ~ Well, I did not freeze last night. Surprisingly I was quite
toasty. Feathered Friends makes great bags. Today started off less than
optimal, it was in the mid-twenties with snow! Egads, I hate this white
stuff. After descending into Unicoi Gap, the sun came out, and the
temperature rose into the fifties. The weather gods were again smiling on
me! The climb down Rocky Mountain was absolutely stunning. The "oohs" and
"ahhs" were coming quite frequently from me. But the views from Tray
Mountain were even better! Coming into the Tray Mountain Shelter I saw Ron &
Cheryl the "Solemates". It was great seeing these people. I also met "Orange
Slice" the first thru-hiker I have met that is about my age. A final
surprise was the trail magic left by Gabriel. He left several bags of fresh
fruit and Coleman fuel in the shelter. This fine day ended with the group of
us talking around a campfire. Great hiking, fine weather, good company, and
trail magic. Life truly does not get better than this.-Paul
Mile Post 66.8 ~ Dick's Creek Gap/Blueberry Patch
March 5 ~ A foggy day on the AT. The fog and the rhododendrons give the
trail an almost magical quality. There is a certain sound to the forest when
the fog is out that just cannot be described in words. I certainly did not
get the views that I had yesterday, but pleasures more subtle were just as
abundant. Now, here I am at the Blueberry Patch, waiting for my pizza made
on homemade bread. Pretty good day here in AT land.-Paul
Mile Post 78.4 ~ Muskrat Creek Shelter
March 6 ~ The Blueberry Patch is a special place. Gary and Lennie Poteat
have given their hostel a family feeling. Their love and caring for the
hiking community gave all of us a much needed boost for the 12 miles to this
shelter. The hiking today was quite difficult. I thought the climb up Bly
Gap would never end! Luckily, Jeremy (a great guy I met at the Blueberry
Patch) and I hit the NC/GA state line before the hike up this gap and
received an emotional charge from reaching this milestone. The hiking today
was again foggy. Jeremy thinks it looks like something out of the Hobbit.
Best description I have heard yet of hiking in the fog. Another milestone of
sorts happened today. I was informed that since I have hiked with my hiking
stick for three seasons, it should have a name. The hiking stick is now
named "Merlin" by Jeremy. Merlin has a purple top, and was named in this
mystical looking fog. Good name for my favorite piece of gear.-Paul
Mile Post 91.1 ~ Carter Gap Shelter
March 7 ~ Rain was the order of the day. No views, no breaks in the fog, no
let-up. Just cold, wet, rain. There is a plus side to a rainy day. The rain
seems to make it easier to do some deep thinking. Between the solitude of my
first day hiking alone, and the rain, all I did was think. Where am I headed
in life? What do I hope to get out of this hike? Now I sit in Carter Gap
Shelter, listening to the rain rhythmically pound on the roof. I am by
myself tonight, a rarity on the AT. Guess it will be a night of deep
thinking as well.-Paul
Mile Post 104.0 ~ Rainbow Springs Camp Ground
March 8 ~ I am beginning to think that the sun is some mythological figure
people from Arizona only see. There is an adage of "No Rain, No Maine", but
does that mean no sun at all?! On the plus side, I am making good progress,
steadily plugging along. A real treat was talking to some weekend campers at
Rock Gap Shelter. This couple was on their first backpacking trip, and
seemed quite enthused over it. Possible future thru-hikers? Now I am at
Rainbow Springs. It is raining quite hard. Any day now that "Annie" song
will come true!-Paul
Mile Post 122.7 ~ Cold Spring Shelter
March 9 ~ Long, snowy day today. I had a late start from Wallace Gap (9:00
AM), so I did not arrive here until six o'clock. Just enough time to set up
my tent and cook dinner before the sun set. Looks like another cold night.
But, give me a hot meal, and I'm good to go. An extra Snickers also does
wonders!-Paul
Mile Post 134.3 ~ Nantahala Outdoor Center
March 10 ~ Winter camping has two faces. The first face is the one of dread.
Packing a tent that has had two inches of snow on it, thawing out the
Nalgene bottles, putting on boots that are a bit too stiff. The other face
is the one that shows freshly fallen snow on the ground, covering everything
as if it were a blanket. The way the ice hangs off the branches, crystal
like. The sun even made a brief appearance today, showing distant peaks
capped with snow. It is now snowing again. I think I will take tomorrow off
to dry out my gear before the next push to the Smokies. A day of just
reading a book after all this fog, rain and snow sounds appealing.-Paul
Mile Post 134.3 ~ Nantahala Outdoor Center
March 11 ~ Several of the other thru-hikers opted to stay another day as
well. This area is having record lows, but a warming trend is expected for
the weekend, just in time for the Smokies. I think to stay here another day
is a wise idea, none of us want to become popsicles, thru-hiker
flavored.-Paul
Mile Post 141.3 ~ Sassafras Gap Shelter
March 12 ~ One long day of lollygagging. Well worth it. The sun finally came
out for a day of hiking. The weather is still a bit nippy. Instead of thru
hikers, I expect to find Nanook of the North. I hope the weather warms up a
bit before the Smokies.-Paul
Mile Post 150.5 ~ Brown Fork Gap Shelter
March 13 ~ I was in a bit of a funk today. I was in no mood to do the
additional mileage to Cable Gap Shelter. Instead it was a low mileage day.
Spent quite a bit of time at the Stecoah Gap picnic area enjoying the sun
and an excellent view of the snow covered Smokies. The Smokies look
beautiful. I only hope the snow is not that much of a problem trudging
through the trail.-Paul
Mile Post 163.0 ~ Fontana Dam Shelter
March 14 ~ If I was in a "funk" yesterday then today I was in the zone. The
miles seemed to go by effortlessly. The sun was warm on my face, my long
johns actually made me too warm, and to top it all off I had the way cool
Muddy Waters song "Got My Mojo Working" stuck in my head. This is also
looking to be the first night in a while that I do not have to wear fifteen
layers of clothes to stay warm! The record lows for this area are finally
coming to an end. Sun, warmer temps, and cool blues tunes stuck in my head.
Life really is good sometimes.-Paul
Mile Post 179.3 ~ Spence Field Shelter
March 15 ~ I knew today was off to a good start when an hour into my hike I
saw five deer running through the woods. I can see why the Smokies are so
popular. The views are stunning, especially in the various fields dotting
the mountains. Seeing prairies on the mountain tops is a new experience for
me, and one I enjoy. The con side to this popularity is that the trails are
severely eroded, making for one long slide on the mud. The shelter is quite
crowded tonight. No other thru-hikers however. Instead, just a nice group of
people doing what I am doing - enjoying the simple pleasures that these
mountains have to offer.-Paul
Mile Post 192.8 ~ Double Spring Gap Shelter
March 16 ~ The weather pattern has been figured out for this year's thru
hike. Two days of sun, followed by a week of slogging through mud, rain,
fog, and snow. But all is not lost, never underestimate the powers of mac
n'cheese liberally dosed with tabasco sauce. All is right with the world
once again. Tomorrow I am off to Clingman's Dome, and blue skies are now
appearing on the horizon. See, mac n'cheese really is powerful stuff.-Paul
Mile Post 203.6 ~ Pigeon Forge
March 17 ~ So much for the magical powers of mac n'cheese! The blue skies I
saw last night were merely a tease. I had my usual order today on the
Appalachian Trail Menu: rain, wind, fog, leather boots that double as
sponges. Just after the Mt. Collins Shelter some Spring Breakers asked me if
I was a thru-hiker and if I needed a lift into Gatlinburg. The first answer
was a yes. The second answer was an unplanned yes. So here I am splitting a
room, all gourged out on pizza, and dry! OK, not in my original plan. But I
think plans on the AT should have an elastic clause. Seems to work. P.S.
Happy St. Patrick's Day! Now, if only I had a Guinness...-Paul
Mile Post 214.0 ~ Peck's Corner Shelter
March 18 ~ I have an idea to make money. See, the AT is now the Appalachian
Stream because of all the rain and snow melt. So, I think that a pretty
penny could be earned by giving gondola rides! Wonder if the park rangers
have rules against people singing "O Sole Mio"? (See what a night in a
tourist trap can do to the brain. Turns it into the same consistency as
grits.)-Paul
Mile Post 227.0 ~ Cosby Knob Shelter
March 19 ~ Waking up this morning I saw a strange sight: a circular object
in the sky that was yellow. What could it be? A dim memory told me it was
the sun. What a concept! Yep, today was a great day in the Smokies. The
ridge walks revealed just how great this park is. The only fly in the
ointment was that snowshoes would have come in handy for three miles of the
trail. Walk, walk, sink in the snow was the pattern on and off. But, that is
O.K. Today proved spring is around the corner and that snow (hopefully) is a
fading memory.-Paul
Mile Post 235.2 ~ Mountain Moma's Kuntry Store
March 20 ~ A word to describe my time in the Smokies: WET. My last day
hiking in this park was in a thunderstorm. Was it a coincidence that as soon
as I stepped on the road that marks the Smokies boundary, the sun came out?
Maybe it is bad karma, maybe I lived in a desert in a past life, maybe I did
not sacrifice enough gorp to the great god of hiking, but whatever the
reason, rain seems to have a natural affinity for me on this hike. But that
is O.K. Excuse the thru-hiker cliche of always talking about food, but a
huge cheeseburger with fries seems to make everything just fine. To
paraphrase: "Rain do thy worst, for I have eaten cheeseburgers today!"-Paul
Mile Post 244.7 ~ Groundhog Creek Shelter
March 21 ~ It did not rain today. Snowed instead. Nothing like a little
variety in the weather, 'eh? But this weather has been inspiring. The word
frosty has been in my head all day. So with no further ado I present:
Frosty, the AT Thru-hiker Frosty, the AT Thru-hiker, had frozen Vibram
soles, with Goretex gear, and two Leki poles. There must have been some
magic in that Snickers bar he ate, For when he put it in his mouth, his
boots began to stomp on the ground! Down to the shelter with Lekis in his
hand, He yelled to the squirrels, catch me if you can! Frosty, the AT
Thru-hiker, now had frozen toes, with a blue nose, and shelter mice eating
his Cheerios.-Paul
Mile Post 255.9 ~ Roaring Fork Shelter
March 22 ~ Today did not start off well for me. Normally I am an early
riser, getting out of my bag at sun-up. Today was different, did not crawl
out of my bag until 8:30, and did not get on the trail until 10:00, not at
all like me. The cold weather and the gray skies just seem to take the spark
out of me. I was frustrated. When the hike was started I did not expect all
sunny days with an inspiring view every minute. On the other hand, I feel
cheated. The days when there are views number in the single digits. Yes,
depression was starting to set in. This trip was beginning to seem more like
a chore. Get up in the morning. hike my miles, eat dinner, go to bed,
repeat. I was missing my friends. I kept on thinking of how they were doing,
missing watching some movie with them while having a few cold ones. The snow
was stinging in my face, and my mind kept on wandering. How much I hate this
weather, that this does not seem like a hike, but an ordeal to put up with.
It was not a good day in AT land. But something happened. On Max Patch Bald
the clouds lifted just long enough to show peaks in the distance. On the way
down the bald, the sun came out, making skies that seem to be only that blue
after a snowstorm. It is funny how such little things can lift the spirit.
Today reminded me of why I am hiking the AT: whatever setbacks I might face,
and whatever good things happen, all will make up a journey I will not
forget. Each day is a thread in the tapestry that is my hike.-Paul
Mile Post 270.5 ~ Hot Springs, NC
March 23 ~ This town is a watershed for me. Any mileage I make after this
point will surpass my previous high for long distance hiking. More snow is
in the forecast for tonight and tomorrow. Not a problem. I need to take a
day off to do a few things in town anyways. Right now I am in a bit of a
vacuum. My hike has been more or less a solo one since the Smokies. Fellow
hikers either go at a quicker pace than myself or will go a little slower.
It is almost as if I am the only person on the trail. With all this foul
weather I find myself turning inward more. All the locked compartments in my
mind are becoming unlocked, making thoughts come into my head that I have
previously ignored. When a person does a thru-hike, many things seem to
happen. You lose weight, gain muscle in the legs, but more than anything, I
think a person becomes much more aware of who they are. At least, that is
the case for me.-Paul
Mile Post 270.5 ~ Hot Springs, NC
March 24 ~ Last night Viking and Obi showed up at the Inn. It was a great
reunion. I have been hiking on and off with these two since N.O.C. and it
was nice to see them again. Today was a perfect zero mileage day. After
going to the post office and the outfitters my largest challenge consisted
of reading a book and drinking a half gallon of milk while sitting on the
porch. It was nice not having to worry about rushing to work or being
somewhere at a certain time. Today, life consisted of turning a page and
taking a sip of milk. Simple pleasures are the best ones. In today's frantic
pace, it is hard to enjoy these pleasures. Too often it seems an emphasis is
placed on faster, more, bigger, better. The pace of this hike is
considerably slower. The world seems a much better place at two m.p.h. The
world also seems a better place when drinking milk, on a porch, on a lazy
Tuesday afternoon.-Paul
Mile Post 281.4 ~ Spring Mountain Shelter
March 25 ~ Hiking the AT is a bit like a 2000 plus mile version of "Cheers"
- everyone knows your name. Leaving Hot Springs was interesting. No sooner
was I checking out of the Inn when I heard "Magaroni!" Said a big hello to
Mr.Clean, then Exodus said "Hello!" etc. etc. Did not get out of town until
almost 11A.M. Meeting people I haven't seen in a few days was as if I were
seeing old friends again. The sense of community on the AT is strong and it
is amazing how the act of wearing a backpack and hiking several hundred
miles can unite people of such varied backgrounds in friendship.-Paul
Mile Post 296.8 ~ Jerry Cabin Shelter
March 26 ~ Early spring has a certain atmosphere to it. The way the woods
smell, the first appearance of insects, the way the sun seems just a bit
warmer and more intense on the face. Spring is a time of renewal. Winter is
finally releasing it's grip and life is abounding again. There were no
scenic vistas today, no dramatic waterfalls, no eyecatching flowers, just
all little things that add up to a satisfying hike. It seems like Mother
Nature is rewarding all the thru-hikers for the challenge it has thrown our
way. The onset of spring is much more satisfying than the last days of
winter.-Paul
Mile Post 311.5 ~ Hogback Ridge Shelter
March 27 ~ Now, at three hundred plus miles, I am beginning to feel
confident in my hiking abilities. Following the trail is much easier. That
is of course until I took a wrong turn today off the ridge and down a steep
side trail. I knew I was in trouble when Widge (Obi's dog) appeared.
Apparently Obi took the same trail I took! Climbing back onto the ridge via
this trail was certainly fun. Straining under my load, sweating up a storm,
and being in the direct sunlight I felt exactly like the name my friend,
Tim, has given me from previous backpacking trips: the Italian pack mule.
Nothing like being an experienced backpacker. Today was exceptional though.
Three days of sun in a row is a luxury that none of us are use to. It is a
luxury I hope we can get used to.-Paul
Mile Post 324.6 ~ Whistling Gap
March 28 ~ My guiding philosophy for this hike has been a quote by Louis
L'Amour: "The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast
and you miss all that you are traveling for." Today was proof that it is
good to slow down a bit, not to make a hike an endurance contest, and always
push for miles. My best view so far was today at Big Bald. Majestic is the
word that comes to mind. Being on a meadow with 360 degree views at five
thousand plus feet is one experience I will not forget. Well worth the one
and a half hour break to relax in the sun and enjoy this magnificent view.
Trail magic was in abundance today. Approaching Big Bald, two women on a day
hike asked me several questions about thru-hiking. I was more than happy to
answer. Then, after their questions, they offered me an apple. Fresh fruit
never tasted so good. The second example of trail magic today was on Big
Bald. A family on an outing gave Crash and myself ice cold Cokes and
homemade chocolate chip cookies. Yummy! All in all, a great afternoon. Now I
am at this tent site. I originally planned to do twenty miles today. But
would I have stopped and talked to the day hikers? Would I have had an hour
and a half lunch break on Big Bald? No. If I had done the twenty mile day,
none of these things would have happened. Seems the quote is true.-Paul
Mile Post 338.9 ~ Nolichucky Gorge Campground
March 29 ~ Pleasant ridge walking was the special of the day. Hiking on
gentle grades, on a bed of fragrant pine needles is one of the better ways
to spend a day. Seemed as if I was hiking 10 miles today instead of almost
15. The hostel here is a really laid back place and a pizza place from Erwin
delivered! Add a can of Mountain Dew from the vending machine, and things
are just fine. All this sun is having an unforseen side effect. Wearing a
bandana is giving me quite the funky tanline. Viking seems to think it makes
me look like a part of a strange cult. Hmmm, Church of the Divine A.T.
anyone?-Paul
Mile Post 341.8 ~ Curley Maple Gap Shelter
March 30 ~ Nothing like hiking a whopping 2.9 miles. Today was Viking's
birthday. [He turned 30, with twenty four years experience] So he was in the
mood for whitewater rafting. So Obi, Viking, Lorax and myself went rafting.
The Nolichucky goes through the deepest gorge east of the Mississippi, and
the scenery was spectacular. What a perfect day! Going through class IV
rapids was a thrill I did not expect to experience on a thru-hike. The four
plus hour diversion to take this trip was well worth the lost mileage.
Rafting on a scenic river and then hiking on a sunny day. The night sky is
crystal clear, and the conversation at the shelter is easy flowing. Another
great day in AT land.-Paul
Mile Post 353.9 ~ Cherry Gap Shelter
March 31 ~ Another day devoted lollygagging. The Beauty Spot truly lived up
to its name. Definitely a Kodak moment par excellence. These grassy meadows
on mountain peaks are something I will miss when I leave this area. They are
simply stunning. Early arrival at the shelter today. Arrived at three and
read a bit. Very relaxing day. I think we are all now official thru-hikers.
All our night time conversations bring up the topic of food at least once!
Beer is also a popular topic of conversation, or lack of I should say.
Thoreau and Muir we ain't.-Paul
Mile Post 362.6 ~ Clyde Smith Shelter
April 1 ~ Unexpectedly short day. Mr. Clean was southbound today, seems he
was dropped off at Hughes Gap to do some slackpacking. He is doing the same
tomorrow except northbound. Mr. Clean invited Obi and myself along for the
slackpacking opportunity. Eighteen miles of just hiking with a fanny pack
was too good of an opportunity to pass up. So, another day getting into the
shelter early and putting a dent into my book. Two leisurely days of hiking
in a row, I am getting spoiled.-Paul
Mile Post 382.6 ~ Elk Park, N.C.
April 2 ~ What an awesome day of hiking. Several miles of hiking on Balds is
by far the best scenery I have seen on this trip so far. Awesome, simply
awesome. Take away forty pounds that are usually on my back, and it was a
perfect day. Today ended with something I have been dreaming of: a steak
dinner! Ah, great hiking and good food. All the bases were covered
today.-Paul
Mile Post 396.1 ~ Moreland Gap Shelter
April 3 ~ "Shelter,Shelter, burning bright, because of Magaroni's
Whisperlight"-with apologies to William Blake, poem courtsey of combined
effort of Mr Clean and myself. Interesting night to sai the least Seems the
O-rings on my stove were loose or something Nothing like see five hikers
(and a dog) run around getting dirt to put out a fire. Biggest loss? My
dinner and a fuel pump. I think my pulse rate shot up by 100 points. Obi,
Viking, Mr Clean, and Lorax said my cooking privieges are revoked until
further notice. I think this has potential to be an opening act for Sigfried
and Roy. The Amazing, Flaming, Whisperlight! Mother Nature is also doing a
light show, thunder and lightning is quite cool to watch. Also much safer
than stoves that turn into fireballs.-Paul
Mile Post 401.8 ~ Kincorra Hiker's Hostel
April 4 ~ Talk about being lazy today. The rain and fog kept us in our bags
until nine AM. So at the last minute the group of us decided to head to this
hostel. Excellent decision. Bob and Pat Peoples, the owners, are two of the
friendliest people around. True friends of hikers. Bob took all of us into
town for food shopping and lunch. Turns out Crash, Dharma Bum, Yoon, and
Oxodus were there as well. So we had a big ol potluck dinner. Home cooked
food, a fireplace, good company and hikers tales from Bob made it a great
evening. Hard to believe in the five weeks that I have bee out here that
these other hikers are now good friends. The AT is more than a trail, it is
a 2160 mile long community.-Paul
Mile Post 419.4 ~ Vandeventer Shelter
April 5 ~ Good weather today. Hiking along the Laurel Fork Gorge was very
senic. The only problem was that the bridges were washed out due to storms
from a few weeks back. So we had to do some bushwacking. The orange blazes
showing a temporary trail seem to be non-existant. All worked out for the
best when the group of us stumbled onto the AT. Trail magic happened today
as well. A long leisurely, picnic at the lake made for a relaxing afternoon.
Did not get into the shelter until just before sunset, but it was well worth
taking the extra time by the lake.-Paul
Mile Post 434.3 ~ Double Spring Shelter
April 6 ~ Today was an incredibly easy day of hiking. If I did not lollygag
it would have been possible to push to the next shelter. The terrain was
that easy. Possible preview of Virginia? Would be nice. But the cynical
hiker in me says " don't get too comfortable, the AT always throws a few
curveballs." Now I know that is true!-Paul
Mile Post 452.4 ~ Damscus ,Virginia
April 7 ~ I was again amazed at how easy the terrain was. Doing 18 miles in
six hours is a feat that would be nice to repeat. Gett to the Virginia line
was a psychological boost. I can't believe I am in Virginia. Getting to this
State really makes me feel like that Maine is a distinct possibility. At
this point in my hike, the rhythm of the trail is starting to be natural. A
sleeping bag is a natural bed for me, and eating out of one pot seems the
right thing to do. Maybe I really am an AT Thru-Hiker?-Paul
Mile Post 452.4 ~ Damascus, VA
April 8 ~ Mixed feelings about taking today off. I did have chores to do in
town, and doing nothing for a day is relaxing. But, I am really itching to
do some bigger mileage. Mentally and physically I think I am geared up to
push myself a bit more. The weather is noticeably warmer, and the days are
getting longer. It seems that I don't need to rest in town as much as a few
weeks ago. The AT is a great workout program. Eat as much as you want, hike
fifteen miles a day, get in great shape. Better scenery than a health club
too. Hmmmm, wonder what the feasibility of having thru-hikers do television
commercials. They could say "Give the AT six months and we'll take off the
weight!" Show them eating Ben and Jerry's and pizza. Finally, a workout
program I am able to stick to! Great scenery, eat a lot of food, six months
of hiking, get in great shape, and have a blast while doing it all. Pretty
good deal.-Paul
Mile Post 468.2 ~ Lost Mountain Shelter
April 9 ~ Quick question. How does one lose a mountain? And if it's lost, is
it's picture put on a milk carton? Just curious. The hiking is now getting
easier. Not so much because of the terrain, but because this ole body of
mine is finally getting in shape. Amazing what hiking a few hundred miles
can do for a person! (or maybe it was the three cups of coffee I had for
breakfast?) Today was odd, weather wise. First the sun would warm a person,
and just as you were breaking a sweat, the rain would cool you off. Not a
bad deal. Now it is just the right temperature to drink some cocoa and read.
A good book and hot cocoa, what a great combination, right up there with a
peanut butter and jelly sandwich washed down with a cold glass of milk.-Paul
Mile Post 468.2 ~ Lost Mountain Shelter
April 10 ~ Yes, I was a slacker today. Looked outside and saw some sleet. So
I (as well as Viking, Obi, Lorax, and Fool on the Hill) went back to bed.
Woke up at nine thirty, ten o'clock and saw that it was snowing! So, the
heck with it. Pulled out my book and just read all day. Lorax and Fool
decided to do the same thing. Consider today a true 0 mileage day. Biggest
walk was fifty yards to get the water. Charmed life we lead on the AT.
People say cruises are the epitome of luxury. I don't know. A warm sleeping
bag, a good nap and something to read was just fine.-Paul
Mile Post 485.5 ~ Wise Shelter
April 11 ~ Awesome. Beautiful. Breathtaking. Scenic. I do not know enough
adjectives to describe this stretch of trail. When I go back home, this is
the kind of hiking I will describe. Huge grass meadows, surrounded by
distant mountain peaks with herds of feral ponies five feet from the trail.
By far some of the most spectacular hiking I have done in my life. It is
days like this that make all the snow and cold of last month worth it. A big
surprise today was getting to see Viking and Obi at the shelter. Apparently
the weather I sat out was far worse at 5000 feet. Hiking through an ice
storm on exposed ridges made both of them a little timid. Also, no sooner
did I pull into the shelter when Yoon and Dharma Bum showed up. So my entire
"hiker family" was here tonight. I have been hiking with the same group of
people since N.O.C. and I feel fortunate that I was able to meet such a
great group on the trail. To make a good day even better, the Easter Bunny
came early for me in the form of a group of weekenders. Seems this group
does an Easter hike every year. After talking a bit, they gave me a Cadbury
egg. One of my favorites! Now, if I can somehow get a slice or two of my
grandmother's rice pie...-Paul
Mile Post 501.6 ~ Troutdale, VA
April 12 ~ Came to the Fox Hill Inn today for a little Easter dinner. Lorax
happens to enjoy cooking as a hobby, so Viking, Fool, and myself enjoyed the
fruits of his labor. (sticking us with dishwashing duty, only fair) Somehow
grilled chicken was just a bit better than Lipton's. Today was also the five
hundred mark on the trail. Not too shabby. Only about 1650 miles to go. On
the hiking front, I had another great day in the Grayson Highlands area. The
scenery in this stretch of trail is something I will not forget. Simply
incredible.-Paul
Mile Post 523.3 ~ Chatfield Shelter
April 13 ~ Today was the kind of day that makes me glad I'm a backpacker.
The spring colors are starting to dominate. The drab browns of winter are
now being replaced by lush greens, deep reds, vibrant yellows and subdued
whites. It's almost as if someone took a box of crayons and colored the
landscape. Days like this make me realize how fortunate I am to be able to
hike the AT. The AT is full of many pleasures, both subtle and dramatic.
Just like the colors of spring, every experience I have adds color to the
mosaic of my memory.-Paul
Mile Post 541.9 ~ Knot Maul Branch Shelter
April 14 ~ Went through farm land today. Not exactly wilderness, but it was
still nice to have a lunch break overlooking this different type of scenic
view. Before I did this though, I went to breakfast at a restaurant right
near the trail. First time I ever had two courses at breakfast. The other
customers in the restaurant find it quite amusing to watch these scruffy
looking guys eat and eat and eat. After this feeding frenzy, I had to take a
nap at the Davis Path Shelter. The weather is still on a sunny streak.
Virginia is turning out to be a very nice state. Easier terrain, gorgeous
views, and great biscuits and gravy for breakfast near the trail.-Paul
Mile Post 560.8 ~ Jenkins Shelter
April 15 ~ Talk about contrasts. The first nine miles to the Chestnut Knob
Shelter was quite nice. More panoramic views over farmland while hiking in
grassy meadows. Took a long lunch break at the shelter, just soaking up the
scenery. The second half... [Transcriber's note: rest missing]-Paul
Mile Post 575.2 ~ Helveys Mill Shelter
April 16 ~ Went into Bland today to pick up my maildrop. Within two minutes
I received a ride. This was only a preview of how friendly the citizens of
Bland are. From the post office to the local market, everyone in Bland is
super friendly to the hikers. The funniest event of the day was the group of
us sorting out our maildrops in the local restaurant. The local patrons must
have found it amusing to see this vast sea of Ramen, PopTarts, mac n'cheese
and Snickers laid out on the tables in the restaurant. Getting a ride back
to the trailhead was very easy. After a short three mile hike, I arrived at
this shelter. With thunder storms on the horizon, I opted to stay in the
shelter rather than pitch my tent. Crowded shelter tonight. Seven people and
a dog makes for close quarters. Ah, the joys of thru-hiking.-Pau
Mile Post 585.0 ~ Jenny Knob Shelter
April 17 ~ Should have pitched my tent last night. Maybe received four hours
sleep total. Ouch. When that many people are in a shelter, it is difficult
to get a good night of sleep. So between the lack of sleep, and a full pack
from a maildrop, the miles just dragged by. When I saw the shelter sign at
1:30, it was too tempting. I just had to stop. A nice short day is just what
I needed. I also think I will tent more often. Sleep comes much easier for
me in a tent than in a shelter. I like the company at a shelter, but
sleeping in one is a different matter. As someone said before "If you can't
sleep, you can't hike". Today proved that saying all too well.-Paul
Mile Post 607.0 ~ Doc's Knob Shelter
April 18 ~ Amazing what a good night of sleeping can do for the body. By
eight, I was out like a light. Today I realized how much I missed my
solitude. The group I have been hiking with are great people, but I needed a
day away from them. One of the things I enjoy about hiking is the fact that
I do some thinking I normally would not do. When seeing the same group all
the time, my thoughts are focused outward, not inward. I think
self-reflection is very important for me to enjoy hiking. The "gang" is now
in Pearisburg, so I will probably catch up with them in a day or two. By
then, I will be ready to see them again. Another thing I noticed today was
that the last hour before arriving in camp is the hardest hour of the day.
You're tired, you're hungry, your feet ache. It does not matter how many
miles you did, or how difficult the terrain is, the last hour is just a
killer. Dealing with this situation uses various methods. Sometimes my mind
wanders and thinks of favorite songs. The problem with that is, like most
people, I only know the chorus and a few random verses of my favorite songs.
Hearing the chorus for "Paint it Black" over and over again can be a trying
experience. Another method is thinking about what kind of food I crave. I
won't get into how maddening those thoughts can be. The last method is
looking at the map. The funny thing about topo maps and profile maps are
that they don't show the little ups and downs that feel like mountains by
the end of the day. So looking at the maps can be self-defeating. By the
time I do all these things, the hour hopefully goes by fast. Then I see that
oh-so-wonderful sign that says "ABC Shelter". YES! Another dreaded "one hour
until camp" blues dealt with. Until tomorrow that is.-Paul
Mile Post 615.2 ~ Pearisburg, VA
April 19 ~ Nice short hike into town. Well, relatively nice. Thunder,
lightning and cold rain add a certain ambiance that is more akin to Gothic
horror novels than, say "Appalachian Spring". The thunder sounded a tad too
close. Becoming "Magaroni Flambe" on a ridge is not a concept I hope to
experience on my hike. Finally, I arrived into town. Sopping wet, a bit
chilled, but alive with the thought of pizza, a hot shower and a soft bed.
Tomorrow I will hit the trail again. To quote from Muir: "The mountains are
calling, and I must go."-Paul
Mile Post 627.7 ~ Symms Gap Meadow
April 20 ~ The mountains were calling today; so were cars, factory noises
and trains. The AT was roughly a mile of road walking for this section. It
is funny that when people found out I was going on this trip, they thought I
would be in the remote wilderness. That concept just does not happen on the
AT. Being no more than five miles or so from a road is typical on this
trail. The views are great, the woods serene, and the mountains are
majestic. But the road walk was a stark reminder of how the wilderness that
I am in is not that wild at all. It may not be wild, but it is still
spectacular to be in. As I write this entry, the horizon is a scarlet red.
The clouds are tinged pink with the last light of the setting sun. The place
where I am tenting is a grassy meadow that has a display of peaks from West
Virginia. The AT may not be true wilderness, but the form of wilderness I am
seeing is still majestic.-Paul
Mile Post 646.4 ~ War Spar Shelter
April 21 ~ Nothing of note happened today. No dramatic views, no bad
weather. No funny anecdotes, no horror syories. Today's hiling was the
equivalent of a Barry manilow song: not too good, but not too bad. The
climbs were moderate, the river walks were nice. The rocks on the trail were
a pain, but did not last that long. all in all an atypical day. Atypical
because nothing happened. So in a Yoda-esque way, on the AT the unusual is
ordinary. I did make an important discovery today. I realized that all Ramen
noodles are all the same flavor. The so-called flavorings are actually just
slapped on the package to make you think Ramen comes in more than one
flavor. The one Ramen flavor? MSG-Supreme.-Paul
Mile Post 664.3 ~ Niday Shelter
April 22 ~ A new animal appeared on the trail. The vicious Vibram sole
eating rocks of the Virginia ridges, Aye Carumba! My dogs were barking when
I came to this shelter. A three sideed shelter looked like a "palatial
estate" from a ritzy suburb. The hiking was not all a rockhop. Going through
pastures while being moo-ed at has a certain charm. I was not sure if I was
hiking the Appalachian Trail or was in an episode of "Green Acres" It was a
sure sign to hurry up and leave these pastures when the sight of cows
brought to mind steak, a baked potatoe and a tossed salad. Now it is night
time. Since I am tired, I am sure some sleep will come fast. My only fear is
that I will dream about moo-ing rocks that will try to eat my boots. Wonder
what Freud would say about that kind of dream?-Paul
Mile Post 686.0 ~ Catawba, Va
April 23 ~ Hiking today reminded me of the White Mountains. Near an ominous
sounding place called "The Dragon's Tooth" the hike is off the ridge on a
steep, rocky scramble. Had to use my hands at times to get down the sides of
the mountain. A passing shower and a brief hail storm added to the fun. I
enjoy these rock climbs, though. Mt hiking style is slow and steady, the
only way to do climbs like this. Viking and I then arrived at VA311 to
receive a hitch to "The Home Place" restaurant that offers those magic words
thru-hikers love "All You Can Eat". And eat I did. stomping around in my
hiking boots and wearing smelly hiker clothes made me fell a little out of
place at this fairly fancy place, but those thoughts quickly vanished as I
plunged into the chicken, mashed potatoes and shredded BBQ pork. Yummy! This
great day ended late with a nice soak in the jacuzzi at the local B&B. As I
look at my watch, it is past midnight. Latest I have been up to on this
whole trip! Funny how quickly I have gotten used to going to bed at 8:30 PM!
Early to bed and early to rise make a thru hiker healthy ( if you don't
count the blisters or rashes or creaky joints most of us get), wealthy
(going to bed at dark saves money on batteries for flashlights), and wise (
maybe, but this thru-hiker still likes mac n' cheese after all most two
months on the trail, not too wise).-Paul
Mile Post 690.3 ~ Campbell Shelter
April 24 ~ Towns are certainly hard to get out of at times. Did not hit the
trail again until two o'clock! Between the huge breakfast, going to the post
office and a little shopping at the general store, time certainly has a way
of going fast. Just as well, I feel totally relaxed. The highlight of today
was McAfee Knob. Perched on this slab of rock jutting out, with panoramic
views, is just awesome. It also provides a great Kodak moment that is sure
to gives Moms everywhere a rather large case of the heebee-jeebees. (Why is
my son on the ledge of this mountain?!?!) Today I was also able to
experience one of the best things about town: letters! More than even hot
showers or good food, letters really make the day. My buddy Leo sent me a
letter at Catawba. I could almost picture him saying the comments he wrote
in this letter. Definately put a grin on my face that will last for a while.
Virginia has been kind to me so far. Consistent spring like weather, easier
grades and some truly remarkable scenery. Virginia blues? Not yet. And if
things continue well, maybe I will avoid the dreaded Virginia Blues (But it
would be nice to hear some Chicago blues).-Paul
Mile Post 705.8 ~ US220/Econo Lodge
April 25 ~ The burden. Monkey on my back. Sixteen tons. All apt names for
the placing of the pack on your back in the morning. But then, the legs
start moving, the body again accepts the fact of an additional forty pounds
on the back. Another day on the AT unfolds. Hiking is not all just
shouldering a load. Crossing over the Tinkers Cliffs instantly made the pack
feel twenty pounds lighter. That is what this is all about, moments that put
a smile on your face and make everything seem right. A word of advice to any
future thru-hikers reading my ramblings: do not go to an AYCE buffet and
expect to hike some more miles. Just does not work. Oof, after the lunch I
ate, I could roll down the mountain, hiking was out of the question.-Paul
Mile Post 724.4 ~ Bobblets Gap Shelter
April 26 ~ Had my first encounter with the Blue Ridge Parkway. Odd going on
the trail and seeing these cars speeding along on a scenic road. Even odder
when the cars are a mere forty feet away. The weirdest part of the day,
though, was when the AT crossed over one of these scenic overlooks that cars
can pull up into. The looks on the people in these overlooks said it all:
"Who are these sweaty, grungy looking, bad smelling people coming out of the
woods?" I know how they feel. I saw myself in the mirror. I was wondering
who was this grungy looking person. (But since I had just showered, the
sweaty look was not there.) Today was a good stretch of trail for hiking.
Sometimes the miles go by fast, with nice terrain. This was one of those
days. Have to enjoy these good days that the AT grants us.-Paul
Mile Post 736.8 ~ Bryant Ridge Shelter
April 27 ~ A cold snap has hit this portion of Virginia. Gray skies and
drizzle was how the morning started off. Even had to wear my mittens while
hiking. Considering how much I was sweating yesterday, it was actually a
nice change. I came to this shelter at 2:30 today. What a deluxe place.
Sleeping lofts, windows, porch with a roof, almost expected a microwave
oven. Such a nice place I decided to make it a short day and spend the
night. The sun came out at about four today. Should be a nice day to cross
over Apple Orchard Mountain, the last 4000 footer until New Hampshire. This
journal is being written at a campfire while sipping on cocoa. It is still
chilly, but I am content. I am not sure what is more memorable: awe
inspiring views, or more subtle moments like these. Somehow sipping cocoa by
a campfire seems the perfect way to end the day.-Paul
Mile Post 747.0 ~ Thunder Hill Shelter
April 28 ~ I am beginning to believe that there are few things in life as
nice as springtime in Virginia. The wildflowers are really blooming, the
weather has been nice, and the hiking has been great. All good reasons to
lollygag and enjoy the day. The two hour lunch breaks, while looking at the
Blue Ridge Mountains, are certainly addicting. Think I will resume my normal
pace, but for now I will enjoy spring at a slow and leisurely pace.-Paul
Mile Post 762.0 ~ Wildwood Campground
April 29 ~ Warm days, cold nights. I like that combination. Being able to
take a break without throwing on fleece is a great feeling. Come night time,
the insects are not out, and the temperature is just right to enjoy a cup of
cocoa. Then I slip into my sleeping bag and settle in for the night. It is a
comforting pattern that is easy to get used to. The law of gravity was
definately working in my fava. Amazing how fast I can hike downhill [with
the added incentive of a hot shower]. Life is certainly much more simple the
past couple of months. Where am I going to sleep and how far away is the
water are the main questions that are important to me. Should be an
interesting transition back to the "real world" when this journey is
over.-Paul
Mile Post 782.1 ~ Brown Mountain Creek Shelter
April 30 ~ The early pioneers of this country were brave, industrious and
rugged, but definetely not original. How many times am I going to pass over
a Brushy or Bluff Mountain? How many Deep Gaps are there on the trail? Just
a random thought that occurred to me today. It was a late start on the trail
today, almost ten o'clock. Made for a later arrival in camp than I prefer.
The last three miles were just emotionally draining. Seems my mind and body
want to shut down at six. But it is amazing how relieved you feel when
getting to camp. You know to the very core that the day is done. It is a
great feeling. Then, dinner is cooked. Eating a meal not only replenishes
the energy expended in the course of the day, but it is comforting. A hot
meal seems to make everything better. Now I am doing my traditional evening
routine: writing my journal while sipping cocoa. I am relaxed, ready to
start a new day. Life is simple on the AT. And in this simplicity
contentment is found.-Pau
l
Mile Post 797.9 ~ Seeley - Woodsworth Shelter
May 1 ~ Steady rain and fog seemed to be the theme for the day. But I
actually enjoyed hiking today, despite the weather. All the rain made me
think of when I was four or five years old. It was time to stop playing at
the first sign of rain. Now, here I am twenty years later playing in the
rain. Guess some things really do come full circle. The gentle tapping of
the rain on the shelter roof is relaxing. Makes for a great way to unwind
after hiking. Sleep should come easy tonight.-Paul
Mile Post 818.5 ~ Maupin Field Shelter
May 2 ~ Had an outing to downtown Tyro today. Downtown Tyro consists of a
combination grocery store post office. But it had all the essentials; namely
cold cans of Mountain Dew and plenty of flavors of Ben & Jerry's ice cream.
Eighty grams of fat and 1000 calories in the ice cream combined with the
caffeine boost of a Dew sure made the climbs somehow easier today. I briefly
talked to my youngest brother on the phone. His reaction to my activities
was "You're really roughing it, huh?" But just think; I had to walk over 800
miles to have a can of soda in downtown Tyro. Well worth it too.-Paul
Mile Post 818.5 ~ *********
May 3 & May 4 ~ Since the owner of where I am staying is a private person
who does not want much publicity. I will just say it is a place of great
hospitality and a relaxed atmosphere. Have to hike here to actually find out
about it.-Paul
Mile Post 818.5 ~ Same Place
May 5 ~ Went into Waynesboro to pick up my maildrop today. By the time we
shuttled back, the dark clouds opened up with torrential downpours. Seems I
won't leave here today afterall. Oh well, at least I won't have to go into
Waynesboro now to get my maildrop. And it is not like I needed a lot of arm
twisting to stay here again.-Paul
Mile Post 831.6 ~ Paul Wolfe Mem Shelter
May 6 ~ Finally escaped! After three days of not hiking I was definately
dragging. But, by the end of the day, I actually felt better. The familiar
rhythm was back. At this shelter is a family doing a flip-flop from Boiling
Springs, PA to Springer. Then they are going to hike Katahdin to Boiling
Springs. The eleven year old is having a blast. I hope he realizes how lucky
he is to experience such an adventure. Backpacking on the AT sure beats what
I did at eleven years old. [Which was attending Catholic School. Definately
not as much fun as backpacking.]-Paul
Mile Post 849.6 ~ Campsite in Shenandoah's
May 7 ~ A blanket of fog covered the woods. When I arrived at Calf Mountain
Shelter for a lunch break, I was sorely tempted to stay, even though it was
only 1:30. But I didn't, and wound up in a torrential downpour. Since hiking
in the rain is not something I felt like doing for another eight miles,
pitching my tent seemed like the best option. Not the worst option either.
Sometimes it is good to have some time alone. Also, the sound of rain on a
tent is very relaxing. I am beginning to believe that flexibility, not
mileage done in a day is the key to enjoy hiking on the AT.-Paul
Mile Post 869.6 ~ Pinefield Hut
May 8 ~ Not the most promising start for a day of hiking. At four A.M.
lightning that could easily light up Fenway Park flashed. The thunder
sounded like two freight trains colliding. This little floor show kept me up
for an hour. Also, since I was tenting on a ridge line, the lightning was
that much more exciting, to say the least. When I woke up again, the storm
was in a lull, a perfect time to break camp. When that was done, I noticed
that the middle of my hiking stick's grip was missing! Apparently a deer
liked the salts from my sweat. There is a deer somewhere in the Shenandoah's
with a case of indigestion, a rubber grip can't be that good for the
stomach. The rest of the day was not a bust though. Several deer came within
ten feet of me, and I saw my first rainbow this trip. It was in an arc with
the mountains forming a backdrop. While looking at this spectacle, a
mini-van pulled up and out popped a woman wanting to know if I was "one of
those people who actually hike to Maine". After playing show and tell for
ten minutes, I was offered a soda. The caffeine boost made the last 1.5
miles into camp a bit easier. Looks like I have the shelter all to myself
tonight. That is a rarity. Think I will fall asleep early tonight. The
nearby brook and a clear sky makes for a great combination to induce
slumber.-Paul
Mile Post 890.5 ~ Bearfence Mountain Hut
May 9 ~ Level ridge-walking and a very foggy day makes for a less than
exciting hike. Much daydreaming is done on days like this. This monotony was
made for when I arrived here tonight. Immediately upon my arrival I was
offered BBQ chicken, a beer and toasted marshmallows by these guys out for
the weekend. The hiking might have been lackluster, but the end of the day
was anything but. And not just because of the trail magic. When I removed my
socks, the top of my toes looked like Hamburger Helper. Hiking twenty-one
miles in wet socks is not the best way to take care of feet. But, dry boots
and socks are two things that can be difficult to get at times.-Paul
Mile Post 906.6 ~ Skyland
May 10 ~ Sunday tourists and grubby thru-hikers make for an odd combination.
Grabbing lunch at Big Meadows, I was a bit out of place in clothes that have
not seen a washing in over a week. Won't even mention what impression my
stench made in this restaurant. I was able to call my Mom today and wish her
a Happy Mother's Day. Amazing what a 10 minute call can do to make Mom
happy. This day ended on a great note, literally. John Lee Hooker was
playing on the radio in my room. My first time listening to the blues in
over two months. Too bad my blues collection is too heavy and bulky to put
in my pack. Some sacrifices just have to be made on a thru-hike.-Paul
Mile Post 917.3 ~ Pass Mountain Hut
May 11 ~ Short day today. Somehow the motive to do big mileage is in direct
proportion to two things: 1)amount of sunlight 2)closeness of town or
restaurant. Since I already had a big breakfast at Skyland, I already had my
restaurant fix.The sun was non-existent today, so making mileage to see a
foggy view somehow did not hold any great incentive. So, I made the best of
the situation, and had a long lunch break at a picnic shelter. Every day has
something to offer, just have to find the good in it. At the shelter tonight
a woman named Sue, and her daughter Melissa, were out for the week and Sue
recognized me from my journal entries. She filled me up with her extra food,
call it enlightened self-interest on her part. I must say tapioca pudding,
Little Debbie Snacks, and Gummi Bears made for a nice set of treats. The
only thru-hiker tonight here is myself, but the conversation tonight is
great. A section hiker from Australia tells the funniest stories. Nice
change of pace from the usual thru-hiker stories of food, lack of food,
types of food we crave and what kind of food is available up the trail.
Blackberry shapes at Elk Wallow wayside is the thing to get, according to
trail rumor!-Paul
Mile Post 941.0 ~ Tom Floyd Wayside
May 12 ~ I was definitely in "granny gear" getting out of my bag this
morning. Hiking in the cold drizzle did not seem that appealing. My nice,
warm, dry sleeping bag might have been a king size bed at the Hotel Hilton
by the way I procrastinated getting out of it today. Somehow I finally
crawled out of the bag, ate breakfast, and moved on! The hiking was not too
bad, just getting out of the bed is the hard part. My last day in the
Shenandoahs was an easy one, just too bad all I saw was fog at the
overlooks. There was a neat looking tunnel of mountain laurel that almost
made up for the lack of views. So now I am 0 for 2 for good weather in
national parks. (By the way, the blackberry shake was good, mmmmmmm
mmmmmmm).-Paul
Mile Post 954.9 ~ Manassas Gap Shelter
May 13 ~ Another day of going into town for supplies, then getting out. The
sun came out for the first time in over a week. Hard to believe it was cold
and drizzly yesterday. The days in Virginia are winding down. Seems like I
have been in this state forever. Virginia is truly a state of transitions.
When first entering Virginia, my hike was still new, the state had a
definete "Southern Feel" to it, and the trail seemed to go on for ever. Now
my hike is a routine. I do not mean that in a bad way, but in a way that
means I have adapted to life on the trail. The Mason-Dixon is also getting
closer, and my New England accent does not seem to stand out as much
anymore. The completion of the trail now seems a real possibility to me. I
still have over 1000 miles to go at this point, but completing a state is
always a great morale booster. The Virginia blues did not happen to me, but
I will be glad to move forward. Virginia was not as easy as people claim it
is, but it was more beautiful than I expected. All in all, a fair
compromise.-Paul
Mile Post 978.1 ~ Bears Den Hostel
May 14 ~ Talk about a day of pointless ups and downs. The climbs themselves
were moderate, but one moderate climb after another, with no views, makes
for a long day. Call it a last goodbye from Virginia. On to Harper's Ferry
in the A.M., and with that the "psychological" half-way point. One step at a
time has brought me this far, and one step at a time will let me reach
Katahdin.-Paul
Mile Post 998.5 ~ Harper's Ferry, WV
May 15 ~ Finally made it to this trail milestone! Did not even think about
this town two and a half months ago, now here I am! The history buff in me
is excited at the thought of checking out the sights. Yep, I get to play
tourist tomorrow. Wonder if they sell John Brown salt and pepper shakers in
the gift shop? At this point on the trail, things are doing A.OK. The only
piece of equipment I am worried about are my boots. The boots themselves are
still in good shape, but the soles are looking like bald tires. Considering
that there were 400 miles on these boots before I started this trip, it is
to be expected. As for myself, no major aches or pains. After a full day of
hiking, my legs do stiffen up, but are fine by the A.M. Mentally, I am doing
excellent. My lowest point was probably just before Hot Springs, but the
cold days are long gone. The adventure of a lifetime is treating me
well.-Paul
Mile Post 998.5 ~ Harpers Ferry
May 16 ~ Nothing like hiker trash playing tourist. I was able to see John
Brown's Armory, a civil war museum and several gift shops that charged $15
or more for T-shirts with a cute civil war saying on them. Alas, no John
Brown salt and pepper shakers. It was an excellent day to sight see, the
temperature approached 90. I was quite content to fill out postcards by the
bank of the Shenandoah River. In the civil war museum, I discovered what the
motto for West Virginia is: "Montani Semper Liberi" - Mountaineers Always Free.
Pretty fair summary of the thru-hiker lifestyle.-Paul
Mile Post 1014.0 ~ Rocky Rim Shelter
May 17 ~ A warm, humid day was the way things were. Seemed as if gallons of
sweat were pouring off as I hiked the trail. The Weverton Cliffs provided a
welcome pull off point for lunch. The vista of the rivers below make for a
nice postcard type photo. Fool on the Hill was at the shelter tonight, first
time I have seen him in a while. Always good to see someone who I thought
was a bit ahead.-Paul
Mile Post 1033.6 ~ Devil's Race Course Shelter
May 18 ~ This portion of the AT should be called the Maryland Suburb Walk.
The trail literally goes between homes and the backyards of "Leave it to
Beaver" type suburbs. Seeing people, not twenty feet away, mowing their
lawns is not something that I expected to see on this trip. The shelters are
also very close to the roads. Even the illusion of wilderness is difficult
to have on this portion of the AT. Can't be helped I guess, being so close
to heavily populated areas. Tomorrow I will be in Pennsylvania, officially
leaving the South behind. So long biscuits and gravy, it was nice knowing
you.-Paul
Mile Post 1053.5 ~ Rocky Mountain Shelters
May 19 ~ Celebrated my birthday by crossing over into Pennsylvania. WooHoo!
No birthday cake today, but a long lunch break at the Antietam Shelter
proved to be the highlight of the day. It was a muggy day, but the creek at
the shelter was just right to wade in. The ice cold water seemed to make the
rest of the day go by very easy. Any day where I can do a bit of swimming
and still make it to the shelter before six has to be a good day.-Paul
Mile Post 1073.0 ~ Toms Run Shelters
May 20 ~ Another day good for miles and taking it easy. Had an unexpected
mid-morning break at the Quarry Gap Shelter area. This shelter is by far one
of the best on the trail. Even has a bench by the stream. Very relaxing
place to soak up the morning sun. If the first break was relaxing, the
second break was just the thing to make the miles fly by. The Birch Run
Shelter area had a large grassy area with a creek flowing in front of it.
Just did not want to move from this spot. Even played a little Frisbee with
Hawk and Funk. [Packing a Frisbee is one of the cooler items I have seen a
thru-hiker carry.] A two hour lunch stop is definately addicting. The best
part of the whole day was that the group of us were able to take such long
breaks and still be in camp before five. A great day! The bugs are
definately out in full force tonight. Which is why I'm glad I have a tent.
The rest of the hikers are getting munched on by the flying blood suckers,
while I am quite comfy in my tent. Methinks they are a little envious of
what some nylon can do for a good night sleep.-Paul
Mile Post 1096.0 ~ Boiling Springs, PA
May 21 ~ Another trail milestone was the event of the day. The half-way
marker was in the woods. A peaceful setting to contemplate what this
milestone means. A part of me was excited that I have reached the half-way
point, but another part is saddened at the fact that this journey will
eventually end. The memories and experiences that are part of the
Appalachian Trail will be hard to leave. This thru-hike has been some of the
most meaningful, exciting and happy times that I have experienced in my
life. Every step brings me closer to Katahdin, but every step brings this
journey that much closer to the end. A prospect that brings both joy and
sadness. Funk, Fool, and myself celebrated this milestone by the requisite
photos, and a mandatory, celebratory Snickers. The town of Boiling Springs
is a relatively new addition to the trail, but it is a nice one. Small and
peaceful. Sitting on the porch swing at the ATC office while looking at the
lake was a fitting end to another great day. Tonight, Funk, Fool and myself
are camped in the backyard at the local bed and breakfast. The night sky is
clear, and it is cool enough that no insects are biting. A perfect night to
sleep under the stars. Gazing up at the canvas that is the night sky, while
lying on the grass lawn is something that I will look back on fondly.-Paul
Mile Post 1117.7 ~ Thelma Marks Shelter
May 22 ~ The Cumberland Valley was an extremely pleasant walk. Temperature
in the low 70's with a slight breeze made walking through large grass fields
a great way to spend a morning. I cannot emphasize enough how much I am
enjoying this hike. Seeing the historic Cumberland Valley on a gorgeous
spring day is another memory that will be etched favorably in my mind. My
boots are now officially no good. The soles are gone and my feet ache
horribly after a few miles. Funk is a native of Pennsylvania and his folks
are going to meet him in Duncannon to bring him to the outfitters. Looks
like I'll be tagging along, too. Odd how much I have become attached to my
Crestas. They have a lot of memorable miles on them. From weekend outings in
the Whites to trekking to the Canadian border in Vermont, and now 1100 miles
on the AT. Hopefully the next 1000 miles will put some memorable miles on a
new pair of boots.-Paul
Mile Post 1121.9 ~ Duncannon PA
May 23 ~ Ah, the Doyle Hotel. How to describe this trail legend. Hmm,
picture an old 1940s detective movie with jazz background music. Instead of
Humphrey Bogart, throw in some smelly hikers. And instead of John Coltrane,
the jukebox in the bar played some country music. The Doyle definitely has a
certain charm. (And the most charming part is that it is cheap.) Duncannon
may not be the fanciest town, but it serves the purpose. Has an excellent
pizza place, too. Tomorrow I get to test my new boots on the infamous rocks
of Pennsylvania. Should prove to be interesting. Nothing like breaking in
new boots on a field of rocks. Think I will wear anti-leather signs at a
Harley Davidson convention for an encore.-Paul
Mile Post 1133.4 ~ Peter's Mountain Shelter
May 24 ~ Lazy, wonderful and relaxing. The way Sundays should be. Knowing I
only had to do eleven miles, there was no rush to reach the shelter. Spent
nearly three hours at an overlook that was a mill before the shelter. There
are now more long distance section hikers on the trail. Nice to see a new
group of faces to add to the mix. I think the people I have been hiking on
and off with have heard all my jokes. A new group of people will take a
while before they realize how awful my jokes are.-Paul
Mile Post 1154.0 ~ Bleu Blaze Hostel
May 25 ~ Rocks of Pennsylvania? Seems to be a bit of a myth. Yes there were
rocks, but not as bad as trail rumor has led us to believe. Instead, the
type of day was a pleasant walk in the woods. The kind of day that seemed
more like a stroll in the park than a difficult climb on a mountain. The day
had an ebb and flow that seemed to go well. It seems as if I do not have to
push myself as hard now. Pennsylvania has been benign, hopefully it will
stay that way.-Paul
Mile Post 1168.9 ~ 501 Shelter
May 26 ~ Yahoo! Less than 1000 miles to Katahdin. Getting down to triple
digits is an odd feeling. Call it another bittersweet moment. At the
shelter, the caretaker has a phone to call in pizza. Waiting at the parking
lot near the shelter, Relax, Brian and I saw a car pull up. Ah! The pizza is
here. So, being the hungry hikers we are, we had a scary look on our faces.
I know we were scary, because the woman driving the car looked at us with
extreme fear. Of course, not being the pizza delivery person, and seeing
these people hovering her car did not help matters. I thought for sure I was
going to get pepper sprayed. When I asked if she was the pizza delivery
person, she gave a very scared "NO"! For some odd reason, she went on her
jog at what seemed like an extremely fast pace. When the actual pizza
delivery person showed up, I was just a small bit hesitant to approach the
car. I am beginning to believe that my appearance is that of a person that
mothers warn their children about.-Paul
Mile Post 1192.2 ~ Port Clinton, PA
May 27 ~ I have found the true faith. Hallelujah! Yes, I now am a firm
believer that the rocks of Pennsylvania deserve every horror story that is
told about them. Big rocks, small rocks, sharp rocks, blunt rocks, black
rocks, white rocks, rocks, rocks, rocks! My dogs aren't just barking - they
are foaming at the mouth in a rabid rage. This thru-hiker is one tired
puppy. I think a big breakfast at the local restaurant will be just the
ticket to face the infamous rocks of PA for another day.-Paul
Mile Post 1207.7 ~ Eckville Shelter
May 28 ~ Three-H weather was the main event. Hot, hazy, humid. The kind of
day that people will say "It's not the heat, it's the humidity". In any
case, much water was consumed today. Tepid water, mmmm! I will gladly take
this weather though. It is far better than the snow of a couple of months
back. This shelter has a caretaker that offers all the essentials: ice cream
sandwiches, cold Mountain Dews, and B.B. King playing on the radio.
Definitely what this hiker needed on a sultry May evening.-Paul
Mile Post 1226.4 ~ Bake Oven Knob Shelter
May 29 ~ Another hot day in this Bake Oven of rocks that is called
Pennsylvania. The haze was a thick blanket on the horizon, with the sun
beating down, making one feel like they are in a broiler. But there was an
oasis in this field of rocks, a hiker friendly restaurant that is
air-conditioned! Ah, relief! The heat was broken late afternoon when a
thunder shower brought a cooling rain. Now the insects are gone, and the
temperature is now tolerable. New Jersey is not too far away. The miles keep
coming, one step at a time.-Paul
Mile Post 1251.0 ~ Leroy A. Smith Shelter/a>
May 30 ~ Water, such a valuable substance, especially when I run out of it
with ten miles left to the hike, and the spring six miles before the shelter
is gone dry. Ack! My daydreaming involved large glasses of ice tea,
lemonade, and pitchers of ice water. Running out of water is not something I
recommend to try on a thru-hike. The ridge overlooking Palmerton was
interesting. The ridge was bare of live trees and was full of rocks. The
only trees standing were groves of dead ones. The whole landscape was
looking like something out of a science fiction novel. The years of zinc
smelting in Palmerton apparently took their toll on this ridge. This was my
longest day on the trail, but I do not feel as tired as expected. Tomorrow
morning might be a different story, though.-Paul
Mile Post 1270.9 ~ Delaware Water Gap, PA
May 31 ~ Another state down. New Jersey awaits. The rocks again kicked our
behinds. Think I will take tomorrow off to do some chores I have been
needing to do. The hostel is a great place to kick back and catch up on some
reading. The lights are flickering because of a nasty thunderstorm outside.
Hopefully the rain will cool things down a bit.-Paul
Mile Post 1270.9 ~ Delaware Water Gap, PA
June 1 ~ Going into town to do laundry felt odd. Any time I am in town and
off the trail it does not feel natural. Too many people, too much activity,
too much noise. Makes me wonder how I will adjust to the "real world" when
this journey is over. After three months of being on the trail, camping is a
way of life; staying up past nine to read a book is a novelty.-Paul
Mile Post 1281.4 ~ Camp Mohican
June 2 ~ Crossing over into New Jersey was a nice way to start the day.
Streams along side the trail, with mountain laurel in full bloom made for a
pleasant walk. A leisurely lunch by Sunfish Pond proved to be the perfect
way to spend the afternoon. Finally, actual swimming in Catfish Pond at Camp
Mohican ended the day on a good note. Days like this feel more like a day
hike than a five month backpacking trip. Not a bad feeling.-Paul
Mile Post 1302.4 ~ Gren Anderson Shelter
June 3 ~ New Jersey has been one of the more pleasant surprises of the AT.
Small ponds along side the trail, striking views of the ridges, pine
forests, and tunnels of mountain laurel that seem to be everywhere. I have
even seen a black bear! New Jersey is proving to be one of the more
enjoyable states to hike in. Who would have thought? As with most people,
when I think of New Jersey, I think of toxic waste dumps. No longer. I will
think of the hike along the ridge, seeing mountain laurel that is a pale
shade of pink.-Paul
Mile Post 1323.0 ~ Camp Site
June 4 ~ Another great day in New Jersey. Cool temps in the low 60's, a
sunny sky, and awesome vistas. Definately the kind of day made for hiking.
Found a great campsite near a brook. After twenty miles, I think tenting
will be just the ticket. Tomorrow should be an easy day into town and with
that the all important shower. Fresh fruit sounds good, too.-Paul
Mile Post 1335.0 ~ Veron, NJ
June 5 ~ Ah, the lap of luxury! Sleeping at the fire station with a hot
shower! Funny how after more than three months out here, a hot shower is the
ultimate luxury. Cleaning away the grime is definately the best. Tomorrow, I
will be in New York. Can't believe how fast the states are going by. Soon I
will be back "home". New England is just around the corner, and with that,
the mountains I know well.-Paul
Mile Post 1354.4 ~ Fitzgerald Falls
June 6 ~ The firefighters of Vernon are definitely hiker friendly. Not only
did they allow us to stay at the pavilion and to shower, but they shuttled
us to the laundromat and to the trail this morning. They also have future
plans to add a washer and dryer hook-ups for the hikers to use. Not too
shabby. Had a great lunch on Prospect Rock. The weather continues to be
excellent. From Prospect Rock, I was able to see both the Empire State
Building and the World Trade Center. Not a bad way to enter a new state. The
only mishap today is that I missed the shelter turn-off. The shelter's side
trail was blue blazed, but did not have a sign! I had a sinking feeling I
missed the shelter when the trail started to descend. But everything worked
out for the best. The camping area by the falls is awesome. Plenty of flat
spots to pitch my tent, and the always relaxing sound of waterfalls. Another
one of the many great days I have had on this trail.-Paul
Mile Post 1366.8 ~ Fingerboard Shelter
June 7 ~ Felt very lethargic today. The miles seemed very difficult, and
seemed to take a lot out of me. Think I am coming down with something. Plan
on doing a little reading, and going to bed early tonight.-Paul
Mile Post 1380.5 ~ Ft Montgomery, NY
June 8 ~ Defintely have a "bug" of some sort. Had a low grade headache all
day, and I had the chills when I climbed into the bed at the hotel. Another
early night it looks like. Think I will also do a very low mileage day
tomorrow.-Paul
Mile Post 1387.7 ~ Graymoor Friary
June 9 ~ Had a relaxing day at the camping site near the friary. Was able to
relax on the grass and read for most of the day. Already starting to feel
much better. One more night of an early bedtime should get me back to
par.-Paul
Mile Post 1406.4 ~ RPH Shelter
June 10 ~ Ah, definately feeling better. The day again had great weather. I
was no longer tired and was able to arrive at camp at a decent time. A long
day of rest was definately needed. The trail was a tunnel of mountain
laurel, with periodic breaks of pine trees. Funny seeing pines at these
lower elevations. Means I am getting further North, and will soon be back in
the mountains I know well.-Paul
Mile Post 1423.5 ~ Campsite North of WestPower Rd
June 11 ~ I woke up this morning with the worse hiker hunger I have had yet.
The lure of a deli less than a half mile off the trail was too strong to
pass up. The deli was a slice of paradise to all of us hungry hikers. Eggs,
sausage, bacon and cheese on a bagel, washed down with a cup of coffee and a
half gallon of milk really hit the spot. Then I bought my lunch to go. Hot
capicola, provolone cheese, marinated red peppers all on a fresh roll.
Yummy! This made a great lunch at Nuclear Lake. Yep, the trail is now newly
relocated to the shores of this lake. The orange streamers marking the relo
are still up and the blazes looked brand spanking new. The lake was great.
Little peninsulas jutting into the lake covered with pink mountain laurel.
Finally, I had a surprise tonight. A ranger from New Jersey was on the trail
today, and he recognizes the group of us. He shuttled our group into Pawling
for dinner. Since, we met up at the shelter just before the road, it worked
out great. The end of this fine day is at the best camp site yet for me on
the trail. It is a grass field surrounded by distant hills, and in this tall
grass are countless fireflies. All I can think of is the ocean back home.
Instead of twinkling lights on a dark ocean, there are twinkling lights on a
sea of grass that seems to extend forever. Impressive sight as I gaze on it
sitting at the base of a lone tree that seems to be an island in a sea of
grass. Relaxing, peaceful, inspiring. All campsites should be this
good.-Paul
Mile Post 1444.1 ~ Mt. Aglo Lean-to
June 12 ~ The spell of sunny weather has been broken. The first rainy day in
quite some time had arrived. No complaints from me, the weather had been
exceptional, a little drizzle now and then is no problem. Today we
celebrated two milestones: two-thirds of trail is now completed, and we are
in New England. Feels odd to be back "home". Knowing that where I live is
now only a three hour drive by car from now until Maine is also a weird
feeling. But, I still have many miles and many memories to live before I am
ready to go back to my "normal" life.-Paul
Mile Post 1451.6 ~ Stewart Hollow Brook Lean-to
June 13 ~ Flexibility. Flexibility. Flexibility. That is how to successfully
do a thru-hike. After I picked up my maildrop, I hit the trail again. I
think Mother Nature's kitchen sink backed up, because the light drizzle
quickly turned into a torrential downpour, complete with thunder and
lightning. (Every time there is lightning, I seem to be on a ridge line.
Makes for an interesting day.) The rain was by far the most I have seen yet
on the trail. So, I thought the heck with it, I am taking an early day. It
is dry and comfortable in this shelter. My meal is rehydrating, and Hawk and
Funk just showed up. Need days like this every so often.-Paul
Mile Post 1461.7 ~ Pine Swamp Brook Lean-to
June 14 ~ Another lazy day, mileage wise. The terrain of Connecticut is
surprisingly rugged. Numerous ups and downs give the ole legs quite the
workout. I did not leave the shelter until 9:30 this morning. Being
somewhere dry has a certain charm. Makes it hard to go off and hike. The
rain was a steady drizzle for most of the day, but as soon as I reached this
shelter, the rain came down in buckets. Talk about great timing! It is good
to be back in New England. The numerous pines and rocky terrain give the
trail a familiar feel. I am even spotting the occasional birch tree, another
reminder that I am steadily moving North.-Paul
Mile Post 1481.6 ~ Riga Lean-to
June 15 ~ OK, I made my peace with the weather. Hiking in the rain is an
expected part of a thru-hike. This kind of hiking is actually relaxing in
its own way. Since you can't see anything off the ridges, you notice other
parts of the trail that normally go unnoticed. The way a particular brook
seems to run over rocks, the small flowers peeking through the pine needles
or the scent of how a forest smells when it is raining. The only thing I did
not like about today was the shelter register. Almost every entry mentions
how incredible the valley looks from the shelter, and what a beautiful
sunrise they saw. All I see is a thick wall of fog! Oh well, can't win them
all. A dry shelter is enough for tonight.-Paul
Mile Post 1504.6 ~ June 16
Tom Leonard Lean-to ~ A steady drizzle greeted me this morning. The thought
of dry socks and boots was a fantasy that has long been given up. The trail
was more of a stream, at some points, reaching up my calf. Crossing Sage's
Ravine was a river ford. I was admiring the beauty of the ravine, while at
the same time hoping I would not get taken away by the current. The descent
down Mt. Everett was an ordeal, the mountain had streams going down the
face, the trail was a slippery scramble for the descent. A delightful day on
the Appalachian Trail. But the sun did come out, salvation was in sight! But
the trail was still unbelievably flooded. The trail near the Housatonic
River was a swamp. I am not ashamed to say I turned around and did a road
walk. The water came up to my waist, and the blazes weren't to be found.
Call it my version of a high water route. Talking to another thru-hiker
tonight, he said he swam the trail, and that the water came over his head!
Always an adventure on the Appalachian Trail or the AS - the Appalachian
Stream.-Paul
Mile Post 1525.7 ~ Upper Goose Pond Cabin
June 17 ~ Massachusetts is such a nice state to hike in. Dark pine forests,
tall birch trees, little streams and several ponds. And cows with a taste
for salt. Walking through a pasture near Tyringham, I was chased by four
cows! These cows must have seen my sweaty pack, shirt and bandana and
thought "Walking salt pile!" At one point these cows were actually running
at me, and were within two feet of me when I finally reached the stile.
People wondered about bears attacking me, who would have thought I would be
chased by cows with a hankering for salt. This cabin is a sweet place. The
porch overlooks the pond - a perfect place to drink some tea on this drizzly
night.-Paul
Mile Post 1546.2 ~ Dalton, MA
June 18 ~ An unusual sense of "deja vu" hit me when I crossed the foot
bridge over the Massachusetts Turnpike. Driving under this bridge always
meant Mt. Greylock was not too far away, now I walked over it. An odd
feeling. Tomorrow I will be at Greylock, but this time there will be no car
parked at the trailhead, no short drive home for a hot shower and work the
following Monday. Hiking on the part of the AT I am familiar with has a
different feel on a long distance hike. The same portion of the trail was a
way to blow off steam during weekends, now it is one part of a long journey.
Wonder what the trail will feel like to me after this journey is over?-Paul
Mile Post 1563.1 ~ Mt. Greylock, Bascom Lodge
June 19 ~ I can't believe the view from the summit. Three hundred and sixty
degrees of pure scenery. Amazingly enough, this is the first time I have
been on the summit when it has not been fogged in. Simply incredible what I
am seeing, the sunset should be spectacular. An incredible stroke of good
luck happened today. The centennial of the Greylock reservation was being
celebrated, so the state of Massachusetts let me stay at the lodge for the
bubble. Not a bad deal - shower, bunk, and two meals, all for being at the
right place at the right time.-Paul
Mile Post 1576.5 ~ Seth Warner Shelter
June 20 ~ What a way to start the day, seeing the tops of the mountain peaks
jut above the clouds, then having a hearty breakfast. Life should always be
this good. Last summer, I was on this portion of the trail, excited to be
doing my first long distance hike. Now instead of the Mass/Vermont line
being the beginning of a journey, it is towards the end of one. Quite a few
"Long Trailers" are here tonight. They are excited to begin their journey,
and I am anticipating the end of mine, but not with excitement, but a sense
of realization that the great experience that this thru-hike is, will
finish. Mixed emotions at that thought.-Paul
Mile Post 1598.1 ~ Goddard Shelter
June 21 ~ Warm weather and the recent rain add up to one thing: swarms of
insects! Egads, the mosquitoes thought it was happy hour on my arm. The bug
repellent kept them at bay, but they still swarmed around my head while
flies tried to imbed themselves in my hair. Luckily my handy, dandy bandana
kept them out. If I thought the insects were bad while hiking, they were by
far worse at the shelter area. Five minutes of sitting in the shelter
convinced me to tent it. The no-see-ums were unbelievably horrid. Cooking
dinner was interesting, I think there was some extra protein in my meal
tonight. The three pounds my tent weighs was worth it. The flies and
no-see-ums are all over the mesh of my tent. If that mesh were not there,
they would be on me! Now I can get a good nights sleep and dream about
swimming at Stratton Pond tomorrow evening.-Paul
Mile Post 1617.6 ~ Vondell Shelter
June 22 ~ Today was an excellent day for one big reason: Stratton Pond!
Taking a dip in a cool pond is just the cure for a muggy June day. Eating
dinner while looking out at the pond was also a relaxing way to unwind. The
shelter was full, but the tent came in handy again tonight. At five o'clock,
two women came by without a tent, or even a tarp. Since the shelter was
full, they had no choice but to push on to the next shelter, five miles up
the trail. There is a lesson in this incident. Sleep should come easy again
tonight. A gentle rain is tapping. After a day of hiking, a little swimming,
and dinner by the water, the sound of rain will be the fitting end to a good
day on the AT.-Paul
Mile Post 1637.8 ~ Peru Peak Shelter
June 23 ~ Spruce Peak Shelter is a classy place. An enclosed cabin, with
bunks and a wood stove, and a porch with chairs that are very inviting. A
little too inviting, I spent two hours sitting there and having a little
"RnR". Funny how fast time goes by when you are just doing nothing but
relaxing. The terrain is getting more difficult. I had forgotten what it is
like to climb up steep grades, then going down the other side of thye
mountain that is also steep. The knees are the best reminder of how the
terrain is more difficult!-Paul
Mile Post 1652.5 ~ Greenwall Shelter
June 24 ~ A problem at this point in the trail is that I am now in excellent
shape. Physically I can do day after day of big miles and/or little days.
That is a problem because the mental aspect of hiking goes by the wayside.
The mind has to decompress, unwind a bit. All these days of getting into
camp late does not let the mind do that. I was starting to fall into a trap
that many of us thru-hikers fall into. Mileage is everything. Down in New
Jersey, it is easy to do big days. But now it is more difficult, and day
after day of doing that is not enjoyable. I had to remind myself of why I am
out here. So when the shelter was spotted at 3:30, a decision was made! Take
a few days and relax. A few big days now and then does not hurt, but do it
consistently, and the trail becomes a task. That is something that I
definitely do not want. Knowing that the next few days will be light already
has a calming effect. Time to kick back a little, I guess.-Paul
Mile Post 1667.2 ~ Governor Clement Shelter
June 25 ~ Another hot and hazy day that makes seeing the sights fairly
difficult. But there was a restaurant ten minutes off the trail that made
for an excellent late breakfast. Sometimes it is hard to resist the call of
these places. A good meal is a difficult thing to pass up. What was nice
about the trail today was passing through this dark grove of pines. It felt
like something out of a German folktale. Almost expected Hansel and Gretel
to be prancing down the trail looking for their breadcrumbs. Also had a
great rest at a brook. The sound of water over rocks has a mesmerizing
affect. Soaking your feet in the water while soaking up some sunshine is
certainly one of the finer things in life. Tomorrow it is a short walk to
the Inn at Long Trail. Guiness on tap is a large incentive to make the miles
fly by. Haven't had a pint of good beer for longer than I care to think
about. There are just some luxuries that are difficult to do without. And a
good beer on tap is one of them.-Paul
Mile Post 1676.6 ~ Inn at Long Trail
June 26 ~ Nasty downpours at night again made the trail a small stream. No
matter, I could hear the sound of a Guinness being poured. Let it rain, let
it hail, let the mosquitoes bite - having a beer of the highest caliber
waiting for me makes any climb or weather seem like minor obstacles. It is
easy to like this place. It is almost as if someone took a piece of Dublin
and put it in Vermont. Having a bowl of stew while drinking a Half and Half
[no Bass here, it is a British beer, a definite no-go in an Irish PubI was
informed], with Van Morrison and John Lee Hooker covering "Gloria" for
background music, made this thru-hiker happy. Any place that lets my Guiness
settle for five minutes is definitely high caliber. Yup, a very relaxing day
here in Vermont. Tomorrow I will come to the Maine junction, and will then
shortly be in New Hampshire. The most rugged, but most scenic terrain
awaits. Katahdin seems to be rapidly approaching.-Paul
Mile Post 1694.1 ~ Winturn Shelter
June 27 ~ New England weather is infamous for changing quickly. Today there
was a constant battle between rain showers and sunlight. One minute I would
be in the middle of a steady drizzle, the next - the woods was covered with
rays of sun. Weird region, but it's home. The mugginess of the past few days
has broken. The days are temperate and the nights are cool. My favorite type
of weather. Cool nights keep the insects away and makes the sleeping bag
feel like a Sealy mattress. Tonight, some of the people in the shelter built
a campfire. Not only does a fire take the chill out of the air, but it is
relaxing to watch. Something about the flames licking at the logs and seeing
the orange glow of the coals, while listening to the crackling of the wood
makes for a mellow finish to a relaxing day of hiking.-Paul
Mile Post 1706.2 ~ Thistle Hill Shelter
June 28 ~ What a fantastic day! Clear blue skies, cool temperatures, great
scenery at the tops of hills, and fields of blackberries in season. Another
day meant to savor by going slow. The initial plan to push on another eight
miles to the Happy Hill Shelter went out the window when I saw how great the
day was. No need to push myself on such a gorgeous day. All the lollygagging
paid off, as well. A section hiking couple, who live not too far from
Hanover, offered to slack pack me for two days. So from Hanover until about
ten miles before Glencliff, I get to hike with a fanny pack and a water
bottle. Not too shabby. They are also letting me stay at their home for two
days. Talk about trail magic par excellence. Taking it easy has its
benefits. The trail magic was just gravy. Being able to savor a sunny June
day in Vermont was what really made it worthwhile-Paul
Mile Post 1720.6 ~ Hanover, NH
June 29 ~ Had two events that really put things into perspective today.
First, I met a Maine to Georgia thru-hiker. Then I crossed over into New
Hampshire. Meeting a southbounder and crossing into my second to last state
really makes Maine feel so close. A feature of this trail that continues to
astonish me is the comraderie. This is only my third day hiking with the
same group of section hikers, and we have already made plans where to eat
dinner, where we are staying the night, etc. The bond among hikers is a
strong one. Shared experiences create instant friendships with people of
varied backgrounds. I am so accustomed to saying hello to everyone on the
trail, that I greet everyone in town. I forget that it is odd for strangers
to be friendly to one another in "civilization". The casual and friendly
lifestyle of a thru-hiker will be missed long after the last white blaze has
been passed on Katahdin.-Paul
Mile Post 1738.6 ~ West Fairlee, VT
June 30 ~ There is trail magic, then there are trail miracles. Four of us
were met in Hanover by the couple we met the other day. Then my eighteen
miles of slackpacking began. Would not want to hike this way all the time,
but it was a nice change of pace. The kindness of strangers never ceases to
amaze me on this trip. Opening up their home for two days was an act of
kindness that will not be forgotten. I will have many thank you cards to
write when this hike is over.-Paul
Mile Post 1754.6 ~ West Fairlee, VT
July 1 ~ Very rainy, but it doesn't seem to matter as much when all I carry
is five pounds of gear. It is my last day of slackpacking and I must say I
enjoyed it. Three nights of taking a shower felt very decadent! We all went
into a nearby town for dinner. One thing I noticed in this town is
homogenous of a country this is becoming. A McDonald's and a WalMart on
every corner. Doing this trail I was able to see the pockets of
individuality that still exists in this country. The trail goes by small
towns and areas that hopefully will not see Golden Arches. A nice change
from the usual way things are done. Sometimes it is a good thing not to be
within five minutes of a Big Mac at all times.-Paul
Mile Post 1764.9 ~ Jeffers Brook Shelter
July 2 ~ Fantastic weather today, dare I hope for good weather for the next
few days? I am very excited that I hit my first above tree-line mountain
[for this hike] tomorrow. That is what backpacking is to me: step climbs
that seem to go forever, then a reward at the top. The feeling of seeing for
miles and miles is incredible. The Whites have always been my playground, it
is good to be back in them. I am getting quite used to these low mileage
days. Something about taking leisurely breaks, and still getting into camp
early has a nice feel to it. Some of my favorite places to backpack are
coming up. I plan on enjoying it.-Paul
Mile Post 1771.8 ~ Beaver Brook Shelter
July 3 ~ Incredibly fantastic weather today for my entrance to the White
Mountains. On top of Moosilauke, the mountains I am about to climb for the
next few days were in front of me. I could see the Kinsmans; a fantastic
view of the Franconia Ridge; and looming in the distance, towering above all
the other mountains, Mount Washington. I even saw Mt. Mansfield and Camel's
Hump in Northern Vermont. What an incredible sight to see. All told, I spent
five hours at the summit. Well worth every minute spent up there. There has
been some great things to see on the trail, but the Whites will always be a
favorite place of mine to backpack. And what do I see tonight from the
shelter? The full sprawl of the Franconia Ridge. Now that is a great thing
to watch while eating dinner.-Paul
Mile Post 1784.9 ~ Kinsman Pond Campsite
July 4 ~ Spending Independence Day in the Whites was a better experience
than I expected. I have been dreading the crowds that are infamous on this
part of the trail. The only people I saw hiking today were five
southbounders on their way to Springer. Apparently all the activity is on
the other side of the highway that runs between the Franconia Notch area. I
was able to enjoy the summit of Kinsman in solitude. Another fine view of
the ridge I will be hiking tomorrow. At the shelter tonight, there are
onlytwo of us. Rare enough on the other parts of the trail, never mind on a
holiday weekend in the White Mountains. Surprises seem to happen all the
time on the AT.-Paul
Mile Post 1796.0 ~ Greenleaf Hut
July 5 ~ I must admit I am an above the tree-line hiking junkie. Even though
it was foggy, the thrill of hiking on bare rock with twenty plus mile per
hour winds whipping around gets the ole adrenalin pumping. And a funny thing
happened on top of Laffayette. I was hiking along when I bumped into the
crew chief of the hut. She said she never gets thru-hikers down at the hut,
and it would be great if I stayed the night. Even though it was a mile off
the trail, I thought "why not"? So now I get to play "show and tell" to the
hut guests as part of my work for stay. The crew is extremely friendly and
treated me as one of the gang. And to make the day even better, the storm
moved out, and a clear sky shows the ridge in all its splendor. Tomorrow
will be full of great photo-ops. Funny how things work out for the best on
this trail. One moment, it is raining and foggy with four miles to go to a
shelter, the next - I am eating fresh baked bread and seeing the Franconia
Ridge against a vibrant blue backdrop of sky. This will be a lifestyle that
will be difficult to end.-Paul
Mile Post 1802.7 ~ Galehead Hut
July 6 ~ Another unexpected stop today. The crew of the Greenleaf suggested
I stop here, and I bumped into the crew of Galehead on Mt. Garfield. So I
received another invite to stay at a hut. Cool. The crews of these huts are
definately laid back. Very easy to get along with them. Spent an hour on
Garfield soaking up the scenery. The sun was warm, the display outstanding.
Feeling pretty content today. The strombolis for dinner certainly help as
well.-Paul
Mile Post 1814.4 ~ Ethan Pond Campsite
July 7 ~ There are several great things about the Appalachian Trail. One of
the things good about it are the diversity of the people using it. From
Snickers crazed long distance hikers to people out for the day. The people I
have met in the past few days have been interesting. Talked to a group of
Canadians who are hiking hut to hut, seen a grandfather out with his
grandson for a few days, and many other people. Being a thru-hiker, I am
asked all kinds of questions. But I just tell them that we are all doing the
same thing, I am just out a bit longer.-Paul
Mile Post 1823.8 ~ Mizpah Hut
July 8 ~ I am getting lazier as this hike goes on! One of the advantages of
being one of the first northbounders is that I can stay in a hut very
easily. There were very black clouds on the horizon, and the closest shelter
was five miles, up hill, above treeline. Another "work for stay" seemed very
inviting. Turns out that it was a good decision. "The Dungeon" at the Lakes
of the Clouds Hut already had seven reservations, and the hut itself was
filled to capacity. So, another early day. I was able to read, and get hot
soup and bread for a late lunch. If this goes on, I am going to forget how
to cook my own dinners. These huts definately spoil the thru-hikers. The
crews at these huts really go out of their way to make the thru-hikers
comfortable. Seems like being on the trail is one of the few places where
being on the lazy side has its rewards.-Paul
Mile Post 1838.4 ~ Osgood Tentsite
July 9 ~ Walking the Presidentials on a July day full of sunshine is a
pleasure that every hiker should experience at least once in their life.
Mile after mile being above treeline, seeing the peaks thrusting out towards
the sky. Simply amazing. The kind of experience that makes the jaw drop for
the whole day. Heck, even being on the zoo that is called Mt. Washington was
nice on a day like this. Getting off the ridge was another story however.
Dropping from over 4000 feet to 2500 feet in the space of less than three
miles was no fun. The trail was almost at a 90 degree angle in some cases.
Made for some slow hiking. When I finally did pull into camp, I met three
southbounders, a few people out for a week or so and a couple I have been
hiking on and off with who are section hiking to Maine. We all sat on a tent
platform, and the more musically inclined strummed their backpacking guitars
and sang some songs. Not a bad way to end the day.-Paul
Mile Post 1848.9 ~ Carter Notch Hut
July 10 ~ Every morning I pack up my gear before eating breakfast. Just a
habit developed over four months of hiking. So naturally the rain came down
in sheets as soon as my tent was packed up. Keep in mind, five minutes
earlier it was bright and sunny. Weather in the White Mountains changes
quickly, especially when a man is trying to eat his Pop Tarts! The terrain
of the past few days has been having an effect on me. Sometimes the terrain
is so steep that I have to pull myself up quite a few times. My arms and
chest have not been used much in the past few months, the sore feeling and
the stiffness in them quickly reminded me how rugged the White Mountains
are. Short day is my reward for the rugged hiking of the past few days. This
self serve hut is a nice place to cook some dinner and read a book. Though,
after the climb over Wildcat, I think it will be an early night in the
sack.-Paul
Mile Post 1863.7 ~ Gorham, NH
July 11 ~ Fog on the ridge, sun in the vallies. Blue skies showing, still
raining. Welcome to the White Mountains. The weather is consistent in its
inconsistency. The climbs are steep, the descents jarring on the knees. But,
I enjoy every moment of this. Seems I am thriving on the challenge. The
freedom found on this trail makes even a less than optimum day enjoyable.
This varying weather has a positive effect. A rainbow can be seen from the
hostel here in Gorham. Fantastic looking. Instead of a pot of gold, I would
like to think Katahdin is at the end of the rainbow. Less than three hundred
miles to the end of my journey. Still not sure what to expect at the end of
this little walk.-Paul
Mile Post 1875.6 ~ Gentian Pond Campsite
July 12 ~ Had a little preview for Maine in the form of three ponds on the
trail. Relaxing just to sit on the rocks and gaze at the water. A constant
on this trail is that my pack feels about right just before I pick up a
maildrop. After a maildrop, the pack feels like I put lead in it. Gives me
an excuse to take long breaks at ponds. So it is not necessarily a bad
thing. Tomorrow morning I will cross into Maine. State 14 of 14. The End.
Final Jeopardy. No thoughts on that subject except "WOW".-Paul
Mile Post 1885.2 ~ Full Goose Shelter
July 13 ~ Short, ten mile day. Ha! The constant steep climbs and steep
descents wore me out. The mileage might have been low on paper, but the
soreness in my legs, shoulders and back say otherwise. Throw in a very full
pack due to a recent maildrop and a fun filled day is had by this Georgia to
Maine hiker. In between my moaning and groaning, I actually had a good day.
Baked in the sun on Mt. Success for two hours, and crossed into Maine. Hard
to believe, but it's true. The whole moment had much symbolism. I slipped
just before the sign, and was by myself at the stateline. So I had the
solitude I enjoy and a fall because of the big klutz I am. Tonight at the
lean-to is quite weird. There are 13 Southbounders here tonight. I have not
seen this many Northbounders on the trail at one time! Odd to see this many
thru-hikers at one time. The contrast between myself and the Southbounders
are interesting. They are excited to enter their second state, and here I am
less than three hundred miles to Katahdin. An end for me, a beginning for
the rest.-Paul
Mile Post 1890.3 ~ Speck Pond Campsite
July 14 ~ The Mahoosuc Notch was fun today. Leaping over boulders,
scrambling over the rocks and seeing ice patches in the middle of July was
quite the exhilerating experience. Took me an hour and a half to do this
mile, so it was a bit on the rugged side. But, it was fun. The climb up the
Mahoosuc Arm was steep, but the reward was sweet. Another leisurely break on
a gorgeous mountain top. The day just kept on getting better. I was enjoying
myself too much to push on today. The pond was inviting to swim in. I bumped
into the caretaker, and she said I could use her inner tube in the pond.
Yahoo! So I had a great swim and then read my book while floating in the
middle of a pond. Talk about the high life! And to end this fantastic day,
four of us had a pot luck dinner at the caretaker's tent, complete with
fresh baked brownies. Life is good. Can't wait to see what happens
next.-Paul
Mile Post 1897.3 ~ Baldplate Lean-to
July 15 ~ The easy day mode is definitely switched on in me. Just felt like
getting into camp early and polishing off my book. It was a humid day, so I
think it was a good choice. Plus I was able to reduce my pack weight. Taking
it easy and reducing my pack weight. Great combination.-Paul
Mile Post 1915.4 ~ Andover, ME
July 16 & 17 ~ Funny how I came to this town. I was hot, sweaty, and
definitely not enjoying the day. Just sitting still made buckets of sweat
come off me. Then I bumped into Camel, who mentioned Pine Ellis B&B
slackpacks. Ah! I see a couple of easy days. We hitched into Andover and
checked into Pine Ellis. Well worth the unexpected side trip. I was able to
slackpack ten miles on an even hotter day and two relaxing days at one of
the friendliest, most accommodating places on the trail. Another two days of
living the high life!-Paul
Mile Post 1928.5 ~ Campsite
July 18 ~ A late start and some fairly rugged terrain made for a late
arrival at the road entering Oquossoc. Waited for nearly an hour for a hitch
that never came. So, I decided to camp not too far from the road and head
into town by another road the next day. I am glad I was not able to get the
hitch. The display in front of me was one of the best sun sets I have seen
in my life. Mooselookguntic Lake was a fiery red, with the mountains having
a pink tinge to them. Looked like something out of a Kodak commercial. One
question ran through my mind though. Is it Maine law that a certain
percentage of place names must have three syllables and be unpronouncable?
Just wondering.-Paul
Mile Post 1941.5 ~ Oquossoc,ME
July 19 ~ Maine is full of ponds! Seems like every three or four miles there
are great places to swim and to pitch a tent. One campsite even had canoes
available for use. If I was not headed into town for a resupply, it would
have been tempting to spend the day at this site. MATC even had some cut
logs available here for use as seats. Now that is the lap of luxury for
camping. Three out of four days in town is unusual for me, to say the least.
Seems like I want to splurge on the luxuries a bit now that the trip is
almost over. Glad I saved some money up before I left. At this point in the
trail many are worried about running out of money. That is one extra burden
I'm glad I don't have.-Paul
Mile Post 1952.2 ~ Poplar Ridge Lean-to
July 20 ~ Saddleback Mountain was interesting today. At the summit, in the
space of five minutes, the weather went from overcast to foggy to drizzle to
hail to sleet! Mark Twain once said, if you don't like the weather in New
England wait a few minutes and it will change! I did not take that statement
literally until today. I had many falls and bumps today. The slippery rocks
definitely gave me a few scares. One fall in particular had me wondering how
the heck was I going to get out of this without doing some major damage. In
retrospect it seems kind of comical. Yelling for ten seconds while sliding
on rocks. The only damage was a few bruises on my leg and arm. Call it trail
magic. Or just plain luck. Five months on the trail has worn me down
physically. I am in excellent spirits, but it is obvious that my body will
need some down time after this trip. I get the "hikers walk" in the morning
until I move for a little while. For those who have never seen this walk, it
is a walk where the knees hardly bend and the person is walking very
stiffly. My knees also get the Rice Crispy affect sometimes. I'll stretch
them out and they'll go "snap, crackle, pop"! Finally, there is my weight
loss. My upper body looks like Pee-Wee Herman! I weighed myself this morning
in town, bit of a shock. While I was twenty pounds or so overweight when I
began this trip, I did not think the weight loss would be as great as it
would be. Mentally and emotionally, I am doing great. I still look forward
to hiking everyday. But five months of hiking has an effect on the body. I
always joked that I was going to be a beach bum for a month or so after the
hike is over. It is no longer a joke, seems like a definate plan. Get to
trade in my Polypro for cotton. That will be different.-Paul
Mile Post 1960.3 ~ Spaulding Mountain Lean-to
July 21 ~ Decided to do a low mileage day, eat up some of my food to lighten
my pack a bit and then do some big mile days into Monson. The terrain
supposedly gets easier after tomorrow, so these past few days of short
mileage has left me geared up to pick up the pace a bit. I am well rested,
and my pack is lighter. So the higher mileage is doable. Meeting
Southbounders is always interesting for me. Not only do we swap information
on the upcoming terrain, but it is good to hear different perspectives.
Their enthusiasm gets me eagerly anticipating the next day, and I think the
fact that they get to meet someone who has hiked almost two thousand miles
encourages them. The only downside to meeting Southbounders is that they are
great people to meet and to be with. But then the next day comes, and we
don't see each other again. It is a great community on the trail, it is too
bad I do not get to know some of the members of our community better.-Paul
Mile Post 1981.6 ~ Avery Memorial Campsite
July 22 ~ I peaked out of my tent this morning and saw gray clouds and some
fog. Great - get to do another spectacular range in the fog and drizzle. But
by noon the fog burned off and had a fun day climbing up a steep trail that
had a fine view. I like to be rewarded for my hard work. And I was. Today
was the kind of day that left me pleasantly tired. Feeling like this lets me
know I had a full day, without feeling too exhausted. The past few days of
rest really helped make the day go by easy. Instead of crawling into camp
with only minutes of daylight left, I was able to get here by six and have
enough energy to cook a meal and time to unwind a bit. I find it odd how a
short day, then a long day can actually be easier on the body than two
medium sized days. Seems to work for me. If all goes well, the two thousand
mile mark will be hit tomorrow. Still amazes me how far I have come.
Springer Mountain seems like a lifetime ago. In a way, it is. I do not think
I am quite the same person of two thousand miles back. This trail is more
than just a journey from Springer to Katahdin. It has been a journey of
memories and experiences that will stay with me and affect me long after the
photo at Baxter Park is taken. Cliche though it may be, I may leave the
trail, but I don't think the trail will ever leave me.-Paul
Mile Post 2003.8 ~ North Branch,Carrying Place Stream
July 23 ~ The best time to be on a mountain peak is early in the morning.
For some reason it is tranquil on the summit at this time of day. The whole
setting puts the mind at ease, getting a good frame of mind for the rest of
the day. Almost made the push to Pierce Pond Lean-to tonight. But I hate
getting into camp late. Though I will miss a pancake breakfast at
Harrison's, I would not enjoy it very much if I was exhausted. I am an early
riser, so there should be no problem making the ferry across the Kennebec
River. Had my worse accident yet on the trail. The on and off rain of today
made for a very muddy and slippery walk. Needless to say, I slipped. Falling
down, my right arm sunk into the mud and was cut on a rock in the mud. Kind
of like a nastier version of a Cracker Jacks prize. I looked at my arm and
noticed a nasty gash. Great. Just what I needed, stitches. Once I cleaned it
out though, I noticed the bleeding had already stopped and the cut was more
superficial than it first looked. So I now have a four by four dressing on
my arm held in place with some snazzy looking duct tape (of course). Should
also have a nifty looking scar as a momento of my hiking in Maine.-Paul
Mile Post 2024.8 ~ Bald Mountain Brook Lean-to
July 24 ~ Crossing the Kennebec River was a big psychological boost. A major
milestone of the trail, and crossing that river really made me feel like I
was coming to the end of my journey. Celebrated this occasion with an early
power lunch of a litre of Mountain Dew and a pint of Ben and Jerry's. This
combination always seems to make the miles fly by. Tomorrow I will be in
Monson, my last trail town. My friend Tim and his girlfriend Nicole will be
meeting me there. Tim will be putting up with me for a week to hike the
Wilderness. Haven't seen any of my friends in five months, so tomorrow will
be a great day. Five months of dumb jokes, wise cracks, stories and general
news will have to be discussed in the coming week. I am curious to see if
Tim or Nicole notice any changes in me. (Besides the fact that I now look
like a cross between Grizzly Adams and a war refugee).-Paul
Mile Post 2046.9 ~ Monson, ME
July 25 ~ Walked into Monson with much anticipation. My last trail town, the
last push before Katahdin! As I approached Shaw's, I noticed a car with
Rhode Island license plates. My friends have arrived! Tim and Nicole could
not believe how different I looked from five months ago. Nicole kept on
saying "You are smaller than me"! (But at 5'6", I am smaller than most to
begin with,my weight loss really makes me look tiny!) They both thought my
beard was 'interesting'. After woofing down several plates of food, Tim and
I did much talking. Between my stories of the past five months, and his news
of what was going on at home, it was a late evening. It is almost 12:30AM as
I write this, well past a thru-hiker's bedtime! Tomorrow we will start our
hike of the Wilderness. The final stretch before the end of this journey. I
have hiked many miles and have had many memories on this hike. Hard to
believe in a weeks time, I will have no more white blazes to follow, no more
climbs to make. I look forward to being on Katahdin, but it will be hard to
end what has been the most satisfying five months of my life.-Paul
Mile Post 2059.9 ~ Campsite
July 26 ~ The first day in the Wilderness had a nice pace to it. Hiking with
Tim made the whole day feel like a weekend backpacking trip. But, as Tim
said, "Weekend trips do not last a whole week"! Well put. Had a major stream
crossing in the form of the Big Wilson. Actually had fun doing this
crossing. Something different from the daily routine of hiking. Finally came
to this spot around 5 o'clock. No reason to push to a shelter when there is
a nice camping spot. A grassy, abandoned logging road with a small stream
made for a good place to spend the night. Tomorrow we will face the most
difficult terrain in the Wilderness. Should be interesting.-Paul
Mile Post 2077.1 ~ Pleasent River
July 27 ~ The Barren-Chairback Range was indeed hard hiking. Many steep
climbs, but, oh, what a gorgeous day. Getting to the Barren Cliffs made
every ounce of sweat expended well worth it. Seeing all these lakes mixed in
with the lush green of the woods was like looking at a watercolor painting
come to life. Just had to have a break and soak up the sunshine and scenery.
Finally made it to another nice place to camp. Some Southbounders told us
about. Flat, not too far from the stream. After pitching the tent, took a
refreshing (polite way of saying "GAWD! THAT WAS COLD!") dip in the river,
and ate dinner. Another satisfying day on the AT.-Paul
Mile Post 2089.8 ~ Logan Brook Lean-to
July 28 ~ You would think two buddies who have not seen each other in five
months would have many meaningful things to talk about. Where we are headed
in life, what I have gained out of this trip, what means the most to us.
Nah. We are guys after all.(grin) And more importantly, we are guys who
hike. So we talked about what every hiker dreams about: FOOD! All we could
think of was food we crave. From steaks and burgers on the grill, to Big
Macs, to all you can eat Chinese food buffets, to my mother's homemade sauce
with meatballs and sausage, to Taco Bell, etc. etc. etc. You cannot
understand why food is such an important item for hikers until you have
experienced this small hole in the stomach that is never quite satisfied. No
matter how much I eat, I am hungry soon after. It is a black hole of
calories that exists in my stomach. We are excited about hitting Abol Bridge
in a couple of days for frozen, microwave food. The thought of frozen
cheeseburgers are actually making me excited. Food is energy, and you can
never get enough of it on the trail. But the discussing of food all day was
not the only thing we did. Believe it or not, we actually hiked a bit.
Getting to the summit of Whitecap Mountain was the best moment of the day.
Could actually see Katahdin in the distance. My first view of this mountain.
The end of my journey was in sight, only fifty miles away. The next fifty
are supposed to be the easiest part of the Wilderness. We shall see. Trail
rumors have a funny way of not exactly being 100% accurate.-Paul
Mile Post 2110.9 ~ Lower Jo-Mary Lake
July 29 ~ The trail has many pleasures to offer. From the broad sweep of
grassy fields on a bald in the South, to the majestic landscape of the
Grayson Highlands, to the rugged beauty of the White Mountains. But, I think
I enjoy these quiet, subtle moments, more. This campsite is by far the best I
have ever been in. A natural beach on the quiet shores of Jo-Mary Lake. The
wind is a slight breeze, and the sun is reflecting on the lake with a soft,
orange glow. I am writing this journal entry by the water, listening to the
gentle sounds of the waves lapping at the shore. A place that lends itself
to contemplation. This place and moment is best enjoyed in silence. Nature
is doing all the talking that needs to be done for tonight.-Paul
Mile Post 2134.4 ~ Rainbow Springs Campsite
July 30 ~ Funny how we ended up at this spot tonight. On the map, I saw a
place by an abandoned dam that looked promising for a campsite. Supposedly
had a trail leading to the spot. Well, I guess we passed it, or the side
trail was not very well marked. I kept on saying "We are almost there!" or
"I think the mud is slowing us down a bit, that must be why it is taking so
long to get there." Optimism is an easy trait to acquire when it is the end
of the day and you are tired and really, really, REALLY want the campsite to
show up. So I saw an approaching grass clearing on the trail and thought
"Ah, the heck with it, good a place as any to pitch a tent". Then I noticed
the sign that designated the camping spot. We had gone more than two miles
past where we originally wanted to tent! On the plus side, that much less
mileage to Daicey Pond tomorrow. Always an adventure on the AT. Especially
when you hike an extra two miles without meaning to. Nesuntabunt Mountain
was a hard climb with another rewarding view of Katahdin. Katahdin is so
close now, not quite sure what to make of it. Do not know what my reaction
will be when I make that last climb. Only one way to find out.-Paul
Mile Post 2134.4 ~ Daicey Field Lean-to g
July 31 ~ Amazing what the lure of ice cream, soda and cheeseburgers can do
to make a ten mile hike go by so fast. The five of us (Squanto, Blaze,
Camel, Tim and myself) bought much food at the campground store. The
convenience store quality food tasted like the finest banquet we have ever
had. By this point on the trail, all the thru-hikers are starving for
calories. Throw on the ice cream sandwiches! The more fat the better. Spent
a small fortune on junk food, but it was worth it. Seeing Katahdin from
Daicey Pond was an awe inspiring sight. Katahdin was so majestic looking,
dominating the horizon like no other mountain I have ever seen. So easy to
be mesmerized by this peak. I can see why the Abenaki called it "Greatest
Mountain". There was a subdued mood in camp tonight. The routine was the
same. Still had to filter water, cook dinner, clean out pots. But it was the
last time we would do this on the trail. Tomorrow will mark the end of our
focus for these past few months. The talk of this evening was still
lighthearted, but there was a subdued atmosphere just under the layer of a
typical night in camp. We were all affected by this trip, and I think all of
us thought about it in our own way. By coincidence, we all had the same last
meal. If there is ever an official meal for backpackers, it is mac n'cheese.
The fact that I still enjoy it after five months is a bit scary,
though!-Paul
Mile Post 2160.7 ~ Katahdin
Aug 1 ~ Woke up very early, even for me. By four-thirty, I was fully awake.
Could not wait to begin the final climb. Felt the same way when I was six or
seven years old on Christmas morning. I knew it was too early to get up, but
it was hard waiting for the right time. Finally, five o'clock rolled around.
The routine was the same, but today was different, I am climbing Katahdin!
Arrived at Katahdin Stream Campground with much excitement and anticipation.
Scanned the cars for some familiar faces. And I saw them. After five months,
many postcards, a few calls, I finally was able to see my friends and
youngest brother again. They all smiled when they saw me, but I think they
were not smiling when that oh-so-special hiker smell hit their noses! The
climb up Katahdin started up easy enough, I went at a slower pace so we
could all hike together, but when I hit the treeline, my pace really picked
up. Tim, my brother and Steve kept up with me - but Leo and Jim fell behind.
I did not even realize how fast I was hiking. When I saw I was on the Table
Lands and could see the Baxter Peak sign, I really picked up the pace. The
anticipation and excitement was too much. At maybe a quarter mile to the
summit, Tim asked me to wait here so he could take my picture as I approach
the summit. I reluctantly agreed. Very hard two minutes of waiting, let me
tell you. Finally, I pushed on again. When I reached the summit, and touched
the sign, I let out the loudest yell of my life. The emotions were that
intense. I had accomplished something that was theoretical five months ago,
and now it was real. Incredible feeling. Took the usual summit photos. My
friends packed up a feast. Cold cuts, bread, a bottle of Dom Perignon, and
they had a surprise in the form of 'sparkling wine' that they sprayed me
down with. (They later said I would smell better stinking of cheap wine!) On
my final hike, I packed in a full watermelon. Nothing like handing out
pieces of watermelon at 5267 feet. Long story behind this, have to explain
it sometime. My hike of the AT is over. No more white blazes to follow. The
AT will always be a part of me. I have seen sights that most people do not
see. I will remember the crunch of fresh snow under my boots, the way the
sun feels after many days of rain. The joy a cold soda can bring from a
complete stranger. The daily rhythm of hiking that seems to bring
tranquility. I have pushed myself physically, mentally, and emotionally
these past five months. It was not easy to do. But the rewards are many.
Horizons are now limitless, what can and cannot be done is redefined. The
Appalachian Trail was a special moment in my life. Never have five months
had so much meaning and purpose. These past five months I have learned more
about myself than I thought I could know. I now have a better idea of who
Paul Magnanti is. The memories and experiences of the trial will always be a
part of me. Climbing to Katahdin may have ended this journey, but in my
heart and thoughts, I will still be on the trail.-Paul
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